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Routes in The Sphinx

Bighorn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerro K'Narlé T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Googley Boogley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Orange Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Single Pitch Bolt and Pro Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 10,160 ft
GPS: 37.947, -119.228 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Bruce Morris on Jul 18, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

The Sphinx (sometimes referred to as the 'Pope's Hat' or 'Pronghorn Dome' or ‘Cerro K’Narlé’ or "Mt Crumblepies") is the prominent 500 ft granite formation above the Tioga Road that can be seen from the big turn at the unofficial Warren Creek CG. The south face has several routes on it, but the best-documented (so far) is the 4-pitch "Great Googley Boogley" (5.10). The 4-pitch "Cerro K'Narlé" (5.10a) on the left side of the face is supposedly excellent and has been done quite a few times. There is a fairly detailed topo for "Big Horn" (5.10b), which is just right of the "Great Googley Boogley' The other Sphinx routes documented here are conjectural and based on old handwritten notes in the summit register and a photographic topo by Eric Gabel. If you do any of them, you're in for an adventure. So any corrections and new information would be very much appreciated.

There is also a relatively easy route to the summit of The Sphinx beginning from the Warren Creek trail head and going up the canyon on the back side, which gains the saddle via a short section of 5th class. Then there's one more short boulder problem from the saddle to the upper part of the ridge (one 5.7 move) and on to the summit. There is also an extension of the East Ridge that continues up the ridge on the other side of the saddle. The East Ridge saddle can also be accessed from the south face.

Getting There

Drive a little over a half mile east of the Rhinedollar Dam on Ellery Lake and park on the outside of the Tioga Road directly beneath the Sphinx formation. Proceed boldly uphill over shattered slabs above the road to access the base.

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