Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Eric Gabel Ed Hartouni July 9, 2011
Page Views: 368 total · 13/month
Shared By: Bruce Morris on Jul 18, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Pitch 1 starts in an alcove with plenty of friable rock (watch your head). Do a series of moves up to a traversing roof then under it with just enough feet to keep it sane. Pitch 2 goes up and around some stacked blocks, then on to a traversing horizontal crack, with no feet really, but once again just enough to get you by the exposed piece, then more jamming up steep corners to the next belay ledge, which isn't much more than the top of a block just big enough for your feet. Pitch 3 starts out steep again, finds a roof, traverses out and left, with just enough footholds to make it possible. Getting past a large loose block to the belay is a tremendous relief. The 4th pitch (5.7) is low angle and takes you up to the summit. Sort of a let down considering the first three pitches had absolutely wonderful 5.10 moves.

Note: Some loose rock. Good climbing.


Up the center of the Sphinx formation which is a little more than a half mile east down the Tioga Road from the Rhinedollar Dam on Ellery Lake. Look up. You can't miss it.


Pro to 4". Doubles to 3". Many long slings. The descent is 4th class with some rappells to make it go faster.
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
Here's a video by Ed Hartouni off of YouTube of the FA of the "Great Googley Boogley" III 5.10:


Should give you a good idea of the first pitch. Jul 19, 2016