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Routes in Antisana

Standard Route TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+
Elevation: 18,714 ft
GPS: -0.485, -78.136 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 773 total, 35/month
Shared By: georgiamike on Feb 16, 2016
Admins: Tony Yeary
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Description

Heavily glaciated peak in remote area of Ecuador, Antisana is a strato-volcano and the 4th highest peak in the country. It is located on the eastern margin of the Cordillera Real, at the latitude where the volcanic chain of the Northern Volcanic Zone is known to be highly active. Its glaciers are considered technical and very active. Generally secluded, the mountain is in the middle of a huge national park 50km Southeast of Quito so it's relatively easy to access. Permits are required to enter the park.
Guide Required Details

Getting There

Two and a half hour drive east of Quito. Water is scarce in the basecamp areas and the hike in to the toe of the glacier is 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on where you camp. Overnight stays are available at local Haciendas but must be booked in advance (many book early because it's a popular area to view Condor's). Since guides are required they typically handle logistics for you.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Antisana

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+
Standard Route
TR, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Route Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+ TR, Ice
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Chris C.
Seattle, WA
Chris C.   Seattle, WA
THIS SHOULD NOT BE YOUR FIRST CLIMBING TRIP

Now that Cotopaxi is not climbable, it seems that a few guide services are selling Cayambe-Antisana combo beginner packages. This is cool if you have some sort of alpine experience and fitness level, but if you are truly a COMPLETE BEGINNER, Antisana is NOT THE CLIMB for you. At least for the complete beginner in our group, his Cayambe experience was not sufficient preparation to safely climb Antisana. Ice climbing wise, we ran into a few 15' ice steps and two traverses of moderate ice, all that must be down climbed as well. If you have used crampons/axe before or have used your hands to climb low angle rock, you'll probably be just fine. However, if you have never done any of that, learning at 18000' is not a good idea. As a comparison to a well known mountain, the normal route of Rainier is significantly easier than the normal route of Antisana.

I was paired in a group with a person in this boat who literally almost killed me and our guide on multiple occasions. I met a lot of people on Cayambe and Antisana who were under the impression that having a guide guarantees 100% safety. That is not the case if you come unprepared!


Totally side pro tip: All of the major western companies use AndeanFace for as their local guides. Booking direct through AndeanFace is wayyyyy cheaper than the western companies and you literally get the exact same trip. The other local guide services that we ran into seemed pretty sketch (I saw one let a client attempt to climb in the freezing rain with only a fleece jacket..?), so I would stay away from the other local companies. Mar 24, 2016

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