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Routes in The Cactus Garden

Detachment Disorder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ocatillo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Palo Verde S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prickly Pair Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Prickly Pair Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 6,623 ft
GPS: 40.687, -105.39 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 995 total · 37/month
Shared By: Ken Duncan on Nov 15, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This is the large, south-facing wall at the head of the valley north of the Stove Prairie/CO Highway 14 intersection (on the south face of Red Mountain). The wall is fairly sheltered and is warm on chilly days. Be sure to bring cactus-proof approach shoes.

Getting There

We initially hiked directly up the valley to the wall, but the cactus are the thickest I've seen in Colorado (our dogs did not have a good time). The talus slope at the end is also extremely unstable. A better approach is as follows:

Park at the Stove Prairie/CO Highway 14 intersection, cross the highway, and head downstream along the Poudre for about 100 yards to the first shallow crossing area. Cross the river, and head uphill to the ridgeline, then follow the ridge almost to its top. Cut left under the last big pine tree, and follow cairns that diagonal up and left, passing close to several other trees to reach the cliff. Once at the cliff, scramble up a ramp which connects to the ledge crossing the face.

The approach takes about 45 minutes from the river.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Cactus Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ocatillo
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ocatillo 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
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Jeff Flanegan
Lander, WY
Jeff Flanegan   Lander, WY
We found an even better shallow river crossing 100 yards UPstream. There's a trail right of the road and cross at the small sand bank diaginally downstream, it's deep if you go straight across. Kind of a brutal hike, but this is a great wall with thin and thoughtful moderate climbing. May 7, 2017

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