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Areas in Muddy Creek

Bob Tower 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Crag 1 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Crag 2 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Creekside 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Kyle's Tower 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 40.363, -106.634 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,229 total, 181/month
Shared By: Randall Judycki on Jul 25, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

The area is in a canyon. In the early season, you may have bug issues, so bring repellent; however, the area is a great place to go and find seclusion. The rock is of good quality, but many of the routes are new, so beware of loose rock.

Getting There

From Steamboat Springs, take US 40 east, to Rabbit Ears Pass. Look for Forest Service Road 100 (aka Buffalo Park Rd. or CR-19) to Buffalo Park. Turn right and follow FS-100 for about 1-1.5 miles. Once you cross over Muddy Creek, go up the road about 200 yards, and park on the other side of the road. A small, faint trail leads down to the creek.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Muddy Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Bittersweet
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Black Light
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitteroute
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bittersweet Kyle's Tower 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Black Light Kyle's Tower 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Bitteroute Kyle's Tower 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
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Photos

dmckee  
Thanks for the kind words, Dougald. The bolted route you were on is Rage Against The Routine, probably .12a for the tall and .12b for shorter folks. I/we put in 20 to 30 hours cleaning lichen and loose rock and equipping that one with help from lots of others like Dustin B. and Dalton R. Right of that on the steep wall. The left steep line is on all gear after the first 3 bolts on Rage is called Endangered Pieces, quite a bit harder than Rage, which I thought was solid .12, if not .12+. Not much cleaning needed but a lot of effort for this one. It was a wild headpoint effort and is still unrepeated. Next is a steep hand crack called Reed's Roost, put up by Dalton, .10+ I think he called it. Another hundred yards downstream and over the creek is a sweet trad line Dalton called The Mosstrum, .11a/b or so. Left of that is a cool mixed line with 6 bolts to gear. It is called The Bosstrum (aka Bruce Springsteen), probably .12-. The FA was Dustin B.

I usually don't post a lot...or at all but fully agree that these are some of the very best lines in the canyon. I hope others will go and enjoy these routes. They are very good for the Steamboat area. A lot of time and thought was put in while cleaning and equipping these. Enjoy. Sep 11, 2016
Can anyone identify the routes on the nice, tall wall just downstream from Kyle's Tower? We attempted the long bolted route and thought it was very good and hard (maybe low- to mid 5.12?). There are a couple of overhanging crack lines high on the tower that look wild. Seemed like the coolest cliff in the canyon. Aug 29, 2016
Why are these all PG-13? Run out? Bad quality or chossy? Sketchy bolting? Aug 21, 2016

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