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Devil's Kitchen Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Devil's Kitchen

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blissed Out TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Carcass On My Ass (C.O.M.A.) TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Carpenter's Climb, The TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Cheaters Crack TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Devils Classic TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Devils Classic b TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jesse's Crazy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Monkey Swing TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Will's Traverse TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Elevation:	800 ft	244 m
GPS:	39.78992, -121.73837 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	7,523 total · 56/month
Shared By:	Muscrat on Jun 1, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A very small area. A thin 'slot' of basalt almost impossible to see if you do not know where to look. 40' tall, 10'wide. There are 5 established lines (top-rope) and numerous alternates. Stays cool for a good part of the day, a good option when the sun baked walls outside are too greasy to climb. THE PARK REMOVES ANY PERMANENT ANCHORS, and if people keep breaking park rules (no bolts) they have threatened to restrict climbing. PLEASE respect park rules. Placements for trad Pro are available. Most of the main wall routes can be anchored using slings on the trees back about 25+ feet from the rock face. I suggest bringing a static rope to extend the master point, as well as a cordelette for each anchor you plan on building. There is a single route on the far right side of the southern wall. You'll need cams to build this anchor (#2 Black Diamond C4, #3 Black Diamond C4, #1 Metolius, #1 tri-cam). Clip the two C4 cams together as one "placement", and link the other two to make a three-piece-anchor using a cordelette.

Getting There

Park in the far lot, past Bear Hole parking lot, next to the locked gate. Walk along the trail for approximately 30-45 minutes depending on your pace. You'll begin walking up a steep hill with darker soil than at the start. Look for a bench off to the right of the trail (it should be visible within 15 feet). Walk down to the right of the bench onto the basalt plateau, where you'll see the rectangular shaped pit to the left of the plateau. Between Salmon Hole and Brown's Hole, a pullout on the right side of the road is less than 20' from the top. The wall is approximately 80' above the Creek.