Elevation: 800 ft
GPS: 39.772, -121.767 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,993 total · 309/month
Shared By: Muscrat on May 31, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The 'canyon' walls on both sides of Big Chico Creek are lined in Lovejoy Basalt. Up to 150' tall, there are numerous potential climbing areas. Due to park restrictions, there is no permanent gear allowed. No bolts, no drilling. As the nature of the rock is mostly face, the majority of the climbs are top roped.
There are also numerous boulders; over the years many lines have been worked, sent, and lost in the sands of time. A great place to bring a pad and a towel.
Please respect the rules, and keep the Chico local crag open to all.
Excellent swimming holes dot the creek, with many of the developed climbs adjacent to swimming holes. Be sure to know the rules of the park, such as no glass, no alcohol, etc.
The top rope anchors are all natural anchors; rocks and trees. Most anchors need to be extended some distance, some more than 30'. It is imperative that long slings and webbing are available. Caution and common sense are necessary.
As with many areas in Northern California, there is a plethora of poison oak.

Getting There

Enter Upper Bidwell Park on Wildwood Ave. As of June, 2015, the road in the park is only open to Bear Hole on a limited basis. The road past Bear Hole is closed, so most climbing areas involve hiking. Check the internet for current closure days and times. Bicycles are a good option for quicker access.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Bidwell Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Orange Crush
Trad, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Ambrosia
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Orange Crush Color Wall
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Ambrosia Bikini Wall
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
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