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St-Alban Ice & Mixed Climbing
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| Elevation: | 133 ft | 41 m |
| GPS: |
46.7098, -72.0793 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 13,315 total · 109/month | |
| Shared By: | Antoine Grenier on Nov 26, 2014 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
Access Issue: Water hazard - This cliffs is insured by the FQME and the parking isn't free.
Details
These routes are in a gorge, 500 meters downstream from a dam. Water levels can rise quickly if the dam floodgates are open so be aware. This area should be avoided if heavy rain is a possibility or following heavy rain or snow melt. Currents can be very swift at all times so swimming is not recommended. There is a mini cave on the footpath leading to the routes, this can be a fun side trip (avoid backpacks in there, tight fit!)5 minute walk from car parking and camping.
FQME membership:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership ($55/year)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade ($30/year)
-Or purchasing a $15 day pass available at the chalet or online for $10.
Day pass fqme.qc.ca/adherer/faire-vo…
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Parking is $6/day or $25/year available at the chalet in the summer (carpool to make it cheaper!).
FQME membership:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership ($55/year)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade ($30/year)
-Or purchasing a $15 day pass available at the chalet or online for $10.
Day pass fqme.qc.ca/adherer/faire-vo…
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Parking is $6/day or $25/year available at the chalet in the summer (carpool to make it cheaper!).
Description
A limestone gorge with many short but fun sport routes graded between 5.5 to 5.12. Most of these routes can also be climbed with dry tooling and you get some short mixed lines in the winter. Most, if not all routes have to be led to install a TR. Some gear on routes is rotten, be aware. Many older routes have had their hardware refurbished in 2014.
For the summer rock routes, please see St-Alban rock
IMPORTANT NOTICE
A dam is located upstream of the climbing areas. Depending on the waterflow (m3/s) some of the areas aren't accessible. Informations regarding current waterflow are available throught this link.
From the current waterflow check with the limiting waterflows :
For the summer rock routes, please see St-Alban rock
IMPORTANT NOTICE
A dam is located upstream of the climbing areas. Depending on the waterflow (m3/s) some of the areas aren't accessible. Informations regarding current waterflow are available throught this link.
From the current waterflow check with the limiting waterflows :
- 0 to 40 m3/s - Access to everything
- 85 to 100 m3/s - Access to everything but "L'Amphithéâtre du nouveau délire"
- At 190 m3/s - Access is limited to "Entrance Area" and pretty much everything at "La Guignolée"
- 400 to 450 m3/s - Access is limited to "Entrance Area" and a few climbs at "La Guignolée"
Getting There
From Montréal, take exit 254 off of highway 40 (st-Casimir, St-Marc des Carrières. Turn right at the light from the exit to get on route 363 north. Turn right on St-Joseph street and then left on rue Principale. Keep on this road for a few kilometers until you reach the bridge crossing the river. The routes are along the north side of the river just west of the bridge. Parking is available on the south-west side of the bridge, in the same area as the campground.
To get to the routes you must cross the bridge by foot and turn left right after you cross it (into a small gravel byway). A small but obvious footpath will appear...keep left on this path as this leads you down into the gorge...a wooden staircase and path lead you down and westward and it's a 2 minute walk to the first routes on your right. Once you clear the trees, you're there!
To get to the routes you must cross the bridge by foot and turn left right after you cross it (into a small gravel byway). A small but obvious footpath will appear...keep left on this path as this leads you down into the gorge...a wooden staircase and path lead you down and westward and it's a 2 minute walk to the first routes on your right. Once you clear the trees, you're there!
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