Elevation: 3,000 ft
GPS: 40.193, -121.726 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,603 total · 237/month
Shared By: Adam Scardaci on Aug 5, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

           The Mill is a beautiful basalt crag located on the rim overlooking Mill Creek Canyon on the edge of the Ishi Wilderness. The area is very remote and offers great adventure to those who come to explore it! The Mill offers both sport and trad climbing on tall steep faces. The rock is very unique and the quality is quite good. The crag is young and new routes are being set often.                      There is camping at Black Rock Campground, 40.183931, -121.712722. The campground is located at the bottom of the canyon next to Mill Creek. There are fire rings and picnic tables and a pit toilet that is usable but in rough shape. There is a very limited number of sites. It isn't a heavily trafficked campground but in the summer when the swimming is best it can fill up. There are 3 small sites as you drive down the campground rd and 2 sites that share a large area at the end. Share space with other climbers if necessary.

Getting There

The Mill has access from multiple different ways. You can access it from Chico CA by going up highway 32 and from Red Bluff by Highway 36. Both have around 20 miles of dirt road driving. The roads are in very good shape and most any vehicle can do either approach. The way from Chico is the easiest if you have a low clearance vehicle. Google maps gives good directions from both directions. It can be finicky to getting google to show the correct route from Chico if you try to get directions to the crag base. The directions are good if set them to Black Rock Campground. From campground the crag is easily seen on the north rim and is only a couple more miles of driving back up the other side of the canyon.

        Directions from Chico. From the Highway 99 and Highway 32 overpass head east up Highway 32 for 37 miles. There will be a dirt road on the left. As a marker as your driving up 32 you'll come to two passing lanes that are a couple miles apart. The dirt road you are looking for is past the second of two passing lanes by about 2 miles.  It is in the middle of a short straight section of the highway. This road is marked as 27N08, google maps names it Dumb Deer Rd. There is also a sign at the turn that says Deer Creek 7 miles. You'll take this road for 13 miles down into deer creek canyon and back up the otherside. There will be smaller dirt roads but it is pretty obvious just stay on the main path. After 13 miles you'll come to a 4 way intersection with another main rd. This road is Lassen Trail. Your going to turn left onto Lassen trail which takes you down a short steep hill. Follow this rd down for another 5 miles. After 5 miles keep an eye out for a main rd that turns off right down into the canyon to the north, this is Ponderosa Way. Follow this rd for 5 miles down to Black Rock. Black Rock Campground is located on a side shoot to your left just after you cross mill creek bridge. To get to the crag keep going past Black Rock up Ponderosa Way for 2.8 miles.  

       Directions from Red Bluff. Take Highway 36 east for 20 miles. When you come to the town of Paynes Creek turn right onto Paynes Creek Loop. In 0.3 miles turn right, just after the little store, onto Plum Creek Road. Follow Plum Creek Rd for 8.3 miles and turn right onto Ponderosa Way. From here you'll follow Ponderosa Way to the south. It is 17 miles till you arrive at the crag. To get to the campground go past the crag 2.8 miles and turn right into the camp just before the Mill Creek bridge.

      There are also other ways to get into the crag but these are the recommended two. If you are looking for an adventurous path from Chico you can take Cohasset Road up passed the town of Cohasset where you can turn left onto ponderosa way heading to the north. This is actually the shortest way in miles from Chico, but it is a rougher road and takes a long time to navigate the rocks. 4wd is definitely recommended if entering from this way.

Crag trail beta: The Mill crag trail is located on Ponderosa Way 2.8 miles north of Black rock campground. Coordinates to the beginning of the trail are 40.191639, -121.726800. From the turnout walk up the road (West) 200 ft. or so and you'll see the trail heading up the hill to the crag. 

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Mill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Butterfly Buddies
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Tiger Moth
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Bad Mamajama
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Frigidaire
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Sidekick
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Megalodon
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Pins and Needles
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Sacred Ground
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
This is My Jam
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Tour Bus
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
When We Can
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Willie's First Ride
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
The Razors Edge
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Sting Like A Bee
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Bleed
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Butterfly Buddies
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tiger Moth
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bad Mamajama
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Frigidaire
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sidekick
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Megalodon
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Pins and Needles
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Sacred Ground
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
This is My Jam
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Tour Bus
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
When We Can
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Willie's First Ride
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Razors Edge
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sting Like A Bee
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bleed
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 2 pitches
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