|GPS:||-18.932, 47.522 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Fred Ranchin on Jun 17, 2014|
General Climbing AdviceThere seems to be little to no climbing infrastructure in Madagascar outside of Tsaramoro but plenty of rock. There are some (few) guided opportunities but to do much of your choosing you will need to bring all your own gear.
Guides are required in all parks. If you are climbing inside a park you will have to convince a guide to hang out with you and accept the risk of doing something that isn’t one of their planned hikes.
However, there seems to be plenty outside of parks. Land rights are not a thing here so walking up the ridge to go climb a cliff should not be a problem. You have some weird looks though. Only rice fields and the buildings themselves have any real claim.
For general stuff about visiting and traveling in Madagascar you can visit my blog.
Climbing AreasThe Archipelago of Nosy Hara
Untouched nature, like you have never seen it before! Two islands, with around 80 equipped routes between 3 and 8a.
- Nosy Andantsara, a small island to the west of the mainland
-sacred island, short visits only since it is actually an ancient royal graveyard
- Nosy Anjombavola:
-small primitive camp for a limited number of visitors at a time.
Massive super compact granite massif. Lots of hard routes.
campcatta.com (Tsaranoro topo)
Vallé des Perroquets (Valley of the Parrots, Analamerana Reserve)
Is the latest tropical climbing area revealed, well hidden in the jungle. Surprisingly you find incredible limestone rising high above the papaya trees, with plenty of holes, roofs and stalactite creations.
Between 50 and 100 sport routes, from 5b to 8b, spread over several cliffs
TOPO available at camp and office (sale in preparation)
New Sea Roc Climbing Shop (www.newsearoc.com) owns/opperates the climbing camp and lodge
There are 4 sport-climbing and several boulder areas around Antananarivo
Montagnes des Français, in the north near Diego Suarez
www.kingdelapiste.de (King’s Lodge, Place to stay close to Montagnes des Français)
Tsingy de Bemaraha
The Big Tsingy tours offer a Via Ferrara experience and there is an optional rappel off one of the Little Tsingy circuits. There is no bolted climbing that I saw. There is potential for protecting pockets and slinging holes in the rock, flakes or cones. There were a small number of larger cracks (#3 and above) formed by river run off and a number of doable chimneys, some protectable on lead.
The rock is sharp and top ropes could get eaten up but the rock is not too sharp to climb. It only really gets sharp on the tops and even then most places you can use the rock in ways that won’t hurt your hands. The rock is very hard limestone so most protection placements seem like they would be solid. Not sure how I’m not sure how much convincing it will take to get a guide to allow you to technical rock climb (something outside of their preplanned trips).
It does look like there is a campsite near Big Tsingy that could be used as a base camp for you and your guide.
Unestablished Stuff off the N7 south of Tana
There is a lot of areas off the N7 south of Tana for more thorough scouting and establishment of routes. All the way until Ikelikapona where the road deviates off the main rocky ridgeline.
There is an area off the N7 before Antsirabe with a lot of gray rocky cliffs. I think some climbing and development has happened here.
Between Ambohimanjaka and Ilaka Centre on N7 there looks to be an ample supply of granite colored boulders with cracks and a few cliffs on the ridges. I doubt any climbing has taken place here.
Larger rock section for dome / slab / moderate routes south of Fatihita by one mile. Again don’t know rock quality. Wet in November. (See photo)
Visible from Alakamisy, maybe 1500-2000 ft high cliffs (See photo)
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season