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Routes in Amphitheatre Mountain

Middle Finger Buttress - Left Side T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Finger Buttress - Right Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Elevation: 8,358 ft
GPS: 48.977, -120.192 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: applewood on Jun 12, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

The large cross-shaped mountain south of Cathedral Peak. The North Face has a few established routes. The 500+' NE Face out on the end of the East Ridge has potential for some more!

Getting There

Approach as for Cathedral Peak. The climbs are approached from either Upper Cathedral lake or Cathedral Pass.

3 Total Climbs

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B. Herrington's "Cascade Rock" is a great new resource for climbing in this area, including the Canadian side of the border. I'll add a couple notes -

"Middle Finger Buttress Left" is listed here as 5.7 A1 but goes free at 5.10b. Pitch 1 links the opening 5.7 chimney with the large and beautiful 5.10 left-facing corner above - an absolutely amazing pitch of climbing. From there the route involves climbing a series of easier and shorter corners along the ridge crest to the summit. P1 is spectacular, the rest of the route less so.

Two buttresses to the left (when viewed from the lake) is Ka'aba Buttress. beginning from the left side of this formation (from atop the large white block) is "Pilgrimage to Mecca" 5.9. This route is 4 pitches, the first 3 of which are fantastic - the 3rd in particular, which involves an incredible finger crack in a corner followed by steep splitter hands. Aug 9, 2016

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