Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: 08/1971
Page Views: 356 total · 7/month
Shared By: applewood on Jun 12, 2014 with updates from Z Winters
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Middle Finger Buttress - Left Side - 5.10b ** III (4 pitches)
This is the largest and more western buttress above Upper cathedral Lake. Begin in the deep chimney on the left, through what originally was an A1 section then 5.7+ series of dihedrals. Top 3 pitches are mostly 4th class.


On the face directly above Upper Cathedral Lake.

To descend hike east along the crest to a small col SW of the N Ridge (3rd class gully down the north slope).


Wide range of nuts and cams


B. Herrrington's "Cascade Rock" has good route info for this entire area.

This route goes free at 5.10b - link the opening chimney with the long corner above in one pitch for a fantastic pitch of mid 5.10. The rest of route is roughly 5.7-5.8 and follows much shorter and easier corners more or less on the ridge crest. Aug 9, 2016
Z Winters
Mazama, WA
Z Winters   Mazama, WA
A bit more beta than some may want. Don't read if you want the full alpine feel.
P1, 5.10: Two options to start: 1) climb the chimney directly below the corner. Sometimes wet, 5.8 2) climb the #3-4 left facing corner to the left of the chimney. Still a bit dirty, 5.9.
From the grassy bench, enjoy splitter hands to a short crux, then continue through nice stemming and jamming until reaching fun off fingers/tight hands (a bit pumpy). At an alcove, traverse left ~15 feet to a belay (nice to have a numero uno). This belay is 38m above the base of the 5.9 corner start, shorter if you swing to looker's left. Death blocks mid pitch are no longer there.
  • In Cascades Rock, Blake mentions a slung horn to the left as of 2012. The tat is no longer present, and the horn might be gone too.
P2, 5.9: After traversing left from P1 corner, straight up to ledge (formerly had a death block), then back right into another 5.9 corner (continuation of p1 corner system)
P3-4: Choose your own adventure climbing on the ridge crest on mostly 4th class terrain, with 5th class climbing up to 5.8 if you seek out the short splitters.

While the first pitch is the money, it's a great route in a gorgeous setting and worth topping out. Aug 16, 2017
Michael T.
Bothell, WA
Michael T.   Bothell, WA
Block at the top of P1 definitely seems to be gone. The first pitch is an area classic for sure, but the rest is kind of a throwaway. It seems like you could traverse hard right after the first pitch and find some better steeper upper pitches. Aug 15, 2018