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The Toe

California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > El Cajon Mountain > Mountaineer Walls
Warning Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Wildlife Preserve, access sensitive, nesting raptors DetailsDrop down

Description

The Toe area has the most consistently moderate climbs of El Cajon Mountain on some of the best granite found anywhere. The South exposure provides ideal winter climbing with just enough breeze to keep the rock temps perfect.

Getting There

The trail to the Toe is NOT the same as to Main Wall.  It begins on the same trail as to the  Mountaineers Wall. Begin the same way from the parking area but go 100 ft past the Forest Service raptor information sign. The trail begins up a gentle slope progressing to a bouldered ridgeline. Towards the top of the ridge there is a metal sign marking the first fork to The Toe.  If you continue to another metal sign for Mountaineers Wall and West Tier areas you have gone too far. Take the fork down hill to the left leading in 10-15 minutes to the Toe. This entire trail is much shorter and less painful than that of Main Wall and about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours for most folks. Another option is to continue up the road past Mountaineers Trail about 1/4 mile passing the quarry. Take a right at the sign for the Toe, this is the direct route to the base. Going straight on the road will access the so. ridge trail.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Hang Nail
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Tough as Nails
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Goody Goody
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Sugar Free
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Sweepers Choice
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Chimney Fire Drill
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Sweet as Can Be
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Run Home To Mommy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Call Her Daddy
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 2
Rona
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
The Cure
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
Six Feet
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 20
Madi's First
Sport, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 29
Swine Flu
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
COVID
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Zika
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Green Fountain
Sport 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Shiver
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Shake
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 19
Cactus Kiss
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Up.
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 6
More Bits
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 17
Old Guys Drool
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
Spark Joy
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 9
Horseshoes
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 22
I Love Red
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Red Shirt
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 21
Any Portland In a Storm
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Chilly Nuts
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 78
Sleeping Giant
Trad 10 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Tethered Goat
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hang Nail
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Tough as Nails
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Goody Goody
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sugar Free
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Sweepers Choice
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Chimney Fire Drill
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sweet as Can Be
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Run Home To Mommy
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Call Her Daddy
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rona
 2
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
The Cure
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Six Feet
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Madi's First
 20
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Sport, TR
Swine Flu
 29
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Sport 2 pitches
COVID
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 4 pitches
Zika
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Green Fountain
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Shiver
 18
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Shake
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Cactus Kiss
 19
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Up.
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
More Bits
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Old Guys Drool
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport
Spark Joy
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Horseshoes
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
I Love Red
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Red Shirt
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Any Portland In a Storm
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Chilly Nuts
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Sleeping Giant
 78
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 10 pitches
Tethered Goat
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Toe
[Hide Photo] The Toe
For the best approach to the Toe follow the dirt road to the quarry, and then a little further west until you see this sign.
<br>
Thanks for the nice sign work Gary.
[Hide Photo] For the best approach to the Toe follow the dirt road to the quarry, and then a little further west until you see this sign. Thanks for the nice sign work Gary.
Trail to The Toe 2
[Hide Photo] Trail to The Toe 2
Helpful sign
[Hide Photo] Helpful sign
Routes of the Toe
[Hide Photo] Routes of the Toe
Trail to The Toe
[Hide Photo] Trail to The Toe
Correct location of The Toe.
[Hide Photo] Correct location of The Toe.
Gum Drop routes
[Hide Photo] Gum Drop routes
Looking up at the start of pitch 3 Sleeping Giant
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the start of pitch 3 Sleeping Giant
The Toe of El Cajon Mountain
[Hide Photo] The Toe of El Cajon Mountain
Climbers on "Horseshoes" (left) and "I Love Red" (right).
[Hide Photo] Climbers on "Horseshoes" (left) and "I Love Red" (right).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Blair Ryan
Washington and Vermont
[Hide Comment] why is everything PG-13 here? Dec 10, 2014
Daniel Evans
Charlotte, NC
[Hide Comment] I did not establish these routes but just climbed all of them today. They are safely bolted with bolts protecting every crux move. Bolts average every 6-8 ft. That been said most of these routes are on low angle slab so a fall above any bolt would not be fun and could potentially result in a sprained/broken ankle if you biffed a clip and fell. But this place is no more dangerous than any other slab climbs at the grades. PG-13 ratings are unwarranted in my opinion. Dec 12, 2015
Michael Lagueux
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Agreed, nothing too spicy here. Well-bolted, fun climbs on excellent rock!

We also climbed a route which doesn't seem to be on the topo or on here--it's the rightmost route on The Toe, to the right of "Any Portland In A Storm". 7 (or so) bolts to a separate bolted anchor/rap chains. Anyone know the details of this route? Apr 10, 2017
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Beta: The routes are bolted in similar style as the route on the main wall and very well protected sport climbs--not PG-13. There's an additional slab route that's not here on the far right which is 5.10, delicate and decently sustained to the anchors, with rap rings. Where most routes are delicate and slabby, the bolts protect the insecure moves and I never felt worried that a fall would result in any injury. Dec 12, 2017
matt g
san diego
[Hide Comment] This approach is not significantly easier, shorter, or really very different in style/terrain, than the approach to the main wall. Great in the winter, 72 degrees, sunny day, light breeze, was totally enjoyable.

Also, the PG-13 ratings are warranted, in places. Dec 9, 2018
[Hide Comment] Gotta take exception here Beef Ranger. Next time you are up there take a look from where the Toe trail branches. When contoured over to the Main Wall trail you will see that you are 500-600 ft below the Main Wall or about even with the start of the switchbacks. But then I am as old as the granite so my half century older legs may be more sensitive to the issue Dec 9, 2018
Tanner James
Tahoe
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know what’s the reason behind the bolts spray painted pink on the left side of the toe? Didn’t look like any rhyme or reason, just a few randomly painted pink. Looks like hell Feb 21, 2021
[Hide Comment] I agree completely Tanner but although not much rhyme there is plenty of reason. This season has had a flurry of new development at the Toe, some of it understandable and some of it out of line by many general area standards. In the specific case of the the route in question it meanders around looking for some place to go and crosses over Cactus Kiss twice. On a number of occasions I have observed climbers starting one route and finishing another and not understanding that they have. The first bolt and bolts before and after the crossover of Cactus Kiss were painted to designate a different route. The pink color was chosen to get the attention of the route setters, and having done that it will soon be changed to something more compatible with the Granite of the Toe. The route additions by the same folks are continuing and as late as yesterday a new route had been squeezed between Zika and Shiver that seems to have the same probability of crossing existing routes while searching for disparate sections of non continuous rock to bolt. I understand that many climbers new to the Toe are using Mountain Project as their only source of information and finding it does not match up closely to what they are seeing. Feeling responsible for most of the information on this venue I will spend the next few weeks surveying the Toe for changes and additions and do my best to pass those on to those who may want them Feb 21, 2021
Ryan G
San Diego
[Hide Comment] anyone know the grade of Green Fountain? Jan 26, 2022
Ryan G
San Diego
[Hide Comment] anyone familiar with the routes on the detached tower to climbers left of Gum Drop formation? looks fun.

while I'm at it, also the arete to climbers far left of last pitch of COVID? looks like two pitches. Mar 4, 2022
Grant Kadokura
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] I haven't been to the Wedge, but the approach to the Toe was really not too bad. Took us 45 minutes from parking to crag. We were surprised at how well maintained the switchbacks were, and on an overcast day like last Saturday it was really enjoyable.

We did encounter a rattlesnake guarding the ledge below Call Her Daddy and decided to save that climb for another day. Stay safe out there! Apr 5, 2022
[Hide Comment] Feb 11, 2023. Our friend had an accident on Swine Flu and passed away while being flown to the hospital. Please be advised there is blood at the base of the climb.

Gear was also left on the wall. While it won't bring him back, it would be a minor win to get it back to his family. Please feel free to contact me if you manage to grab the gear.

916-396-8095 Feb 12, 2023
[Hide Comment] This is the a great climbing spot for kids! I hiked up with our first, third, and seventh grade kids and they loved it! The hike was short enough that we were able to carry the 2 and 3 year old kids on our back. Such a great top-rope spot! Get out there! Feb 21, 2024