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The Toe

California > San Diego > S SD > El Cajon Mountain > Mountaineers Wall
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details
Access Issue: Wildlife Preserve, access sensitive, nesting raptors Details

Description

The Toe area has the most consistently moderate climbs of El Cajon Mountain on some of the best granite found anywhere. The South exposure provides ideal winter climbing with just enough breeze to keep the rock temps perfect.

Getting There

The trail to the Toe is NOT the same as to Main Wall.  It begins on the same trail as to the  Mountaineers Wall. Begin the same way from the parking area but go 100 ft past the Forest Service raptor information sign. The trail begins up a gentle slope progressing to a bouldered ridgeline. Towards the top of the ridge there is a metal sign marking the first fork to The Toe.  If you continue to another metal sign for Mountaineers Wall and West Tier areas you have gone too far. Take the fork down hill to the left leading in 10-15 minutes to the Toe. This entire trail is much shorter and less painful than that of Main Wall and about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours for most folks.

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 9
Madi's First
Sport, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 10
Swine Flu
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Zika
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Shiver
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 10
Cactus Kiss
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 2
More Bits
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 7
Old Guys Drool
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 5
Horseshoes
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 8
I Love Red
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 7
Any Portland In a Storm
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Chilly Nuts
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Madi's First
 9
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Sport, TR
Swine Flu
 10
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Zika
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Shiver
 2
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Cactus Kiss
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Sport 3 pitches
More Bits
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Old Guys Drool
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport
Horseshoes
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
I Love Red
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Any Portland In a Storm
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Chilly Nuts
 1
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Helpful sign
[Hide Photo] Helpful sign
Trail to The Toe 2
[Hide Photo] Trail to The Toe 2
Trail to The Toe
[Hide Photo] Trail to The Toe
Climbers on "Horseshoes" (left) and "I Love Red" (right).
[Hide Photo] Climbers on "Horseshoes" (left) and "I Love Red" (right).
Correct location of The Toe.
[Hide Photo] Correct location of The Toe.
Routes of the Toe
[Hide Photo] Routes of the Toe

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Blair Ryan
Washington
[Hide Comment] why is everything PG-13 here? Dec 10, 2014
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
[Hide Comment] I did not establish these routes but just climbed all of them today. They are safely bolted with bolts protecting every crux move. Bolts average every 6-8 ft. That been said most of these routes are on low angle slab so a fall above any bolt would not be fun and could potentially result in a sprained/broken ankle if you biffed a clip and fell. But this place is no more dangerous than any other slab climbs at the grades. PG-13 ratings are unwarranted in my opinion. Dec 12, 2015
Michael Lagueux
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Agreed, nothing too spicy here. Well-bolted, fun climbs on excellent rock!

We also climbed a route which doesn't seem to be on the topo or on here--it's the rightmost route on The Toe, to the right of "Any Portland In A Storm". 7 (or so) bolts to a separate bolted anchor/rap chains. Anyone know the details of this route? Apr 10, 2017
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Beta: The routes are bolted in similar style as the route on the main wall and very well protected sport climbs--not PG-13. There's an additional slab route that's not here on the far right which is 5.10, delicate and decently sustained to the anchors, with rap rings. Where most routes are delicate and slabby, the bolts protect the insecure moves and I never felt worried that a fall would result in any injury. Dec 12, 2017
beef ranger
san diego
[Hide Comment] This approach is not significantly easier, shorter, or really very different in style/terrain, than the approach to the main wall. Great in the winter, 72 degrees, sunny day, light breeze, was totally enjoyable.

Also, the PG-13 ratings are warranted, in places. Dec 9, 2018
[Hide Comment] Gotta take exception here Beef Ranger. Next time you are up there take a look from where the Toe trail branches. When contoured over to the Main Wall trail you will see that you are 500-600 ft below the Main Wall or about even with the start of the switchbacks. But then I am as old as the granite so my half century older legs may be more sensitive to the issue Dec 9, 2018