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Devils Gate Rock Climbing

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Handcart Misery S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Elevation:	6,160 ft	1,878 m
GPS:	42.44686, -107.21165 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,297 total · 25/month
Shared By:	Dennis Horning on Feb 26, 2014
Admins:	Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Sticky situation Details

This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.

The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.

Description

Devils Gate is a stream cut canyon through a granite dome. The west to east stream cutting after some time left the 300+ feet canyon walls with some face features and an assortment of disjunct cracks. The canyon has been climbed for some time by trad methods and some sport routes are in the canyon. The area rebuffs many new route enthusiasts because the cracks are not very continuous and pinch out at the overhangs. The difficulty for new sport routes is that all rap anchors locations either need aid climbing or a long rap from the summit to get to the desired anchor location. But the routes can be superb, yet the season is short. And so to for the good of having little time, the approach is short, but can be wet on the feet.

Most of the climbing activity here seems to have gone unreported to guide book authors. So as for other lines and bolts you are on you own.

Getting There

Devils Gate is about half way between Casper and Rawlins just off their connecting highway WY220. The rocks are just north of WY 220 and north of the intact old WY220. From Muddy Gap Three Forks jct drive 16 miles east and turn left on old WY 220 until just next to the west side of the dome. If coming from Casper find the same turnoff 4.25 miles west of the Independence Rock turnoff.

During spring high water the walking stream level entrance can become unsafe at the stream crossings. Late spring and early fall are the best times with July-Aug sometimes quite hot but the stream provides swimming.