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Routes in Big Butte - South Face

A MIGHTY WIND S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
BOOTIE FRUITY S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
BREAK LIKE THE WIND T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
BUTTE-EOUS MAXIMUS T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
GLUTEOUS MAX S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NATURAL GAS T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
OLD FARTS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
RETURN OF THE MIGHTY M.O.G.S S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
SBD S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
SE BUTTRESS - LEFT SIDE S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
SE BUTTRESS - RIGHT SIDE T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
VENUS OF OKANOGAN T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
WHY RAINCOATS ARE YELLOW T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 1,484 ft
GPS: 48.876, -119.405 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,278 total · 22/month
Shared By: applewood on Oct 27, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

The main south facing wall, from the lower angled SE Buttress on the right to the steeper and darker wall on the left, a wide variety of easy to moderate climbs, trad, sport and mixed.

The first 5 routes at the far right end on the lower angled and lighter colored NE Buttress are easy yet fun sport routes (5.2 to 5.5), and a great place for practicing gear placements while on a bolt protected lead, although they may seem to have the bolts too widely spaced for a first lead by someone not solid at the grade. The first 3 share the same top chain anchors. The 4th and 5th share the same cold shut anchors.

Getting There

South face accessible from the west side most easily.

13 Total Climbs

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Location: Big Butte - South Face Change
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April 1,2018. Explored this area as an alternative to the long weekend crowds and insanity at the Bluffs near Penticton. Quite the scenic hike in from Whistler. Lead S.B.D. and top roped a few routes to the left. Lead climbing routes other than S.B.D. would have been challenging to dangerous with significant volume of moss on upper parts of routes and loose rock. On one route (fortunately my belayer was not belaying directly below) three basket ball sized rocks gave way at once and tumbled directly down. With easier access and a bit of clean up this and other rock faces in the area have amazing potential. Apr 2, 2018
applewood
Tonasket, WA
applewood   Tonasket, WA
Hi Bruce, you sound pretty adventurous (hiking all the way in from WCT)! This whole area now is much harder to access (use to be easy from the orchards before they recently changed ownership), and so not getting much attention. It's a fun crag though, yet the top is prone to loose rock and seasonal run-off of dirt/debris - it's not uncommon for new rock to loosen up after each winter around here. Apr 2, 2018

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