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Routes in Little Gotham

If the cops come hide the camera T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
Victimless Criminal TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Elevation: 647 ft
GPS: 35.318, -120.622 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Serial Crusher on Aug 15, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

A manmade retainaing wall of plated concrete. Certainly not worth a trip on its own for anyone traveling through town, but it does offer some unique features and a chance to mix it up a bit and still do some climbing.

Every single crack on the wall can be protected with cams no bigger than .75", except for one crack that is short and 5.6. It can take up to a #3, but its not worth doing.

Bring a runner to clip into the reinforcement rails up top to TR or to rap off and clean your gear. Use your imagination.

The crux of all routes is at the very top.

The cracks range from easy to easy 5.6-5.9, but doing purely face climbing can bump it to mid .10s-.11s real quick.

Have fun.
Be Respectful Details

Getting There

On the 101 North from San Luis Obispo, turn left onto lower Stagecoach Road. Its the turn before you start gaining any major elevation. The wall is 50 feet in from the freeway and on the right.

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SmartRockClimbing
Oceano, CA
SmartRockClimbing   Oceano, CA
I found that finding this location was difficult. To help make things a little easier, here's a bit more description on how to get there.

From San Luis Obispo: Take US-101 N from San Luis Obispo. Drive out of the city about 2.7 miles past the Monteray St exit. Just before the grade (the big hill that the 101 heads up to get to Atascadero), you will see a left hand turning lane for Old Stagecoach Rd. Turn left onto the dirt road. Shortly after turning in, you will see Little Gotham on the right.

From Atascadero: Take US-101 S towards San Luis Obispo. Drive south about 4.9 miles past the CA-58/Santa Margarita exit. At the bottom of the grade (the big hill), you will see a right hand turning lane for Old Stagecoach Rd. Turn right onto the dirt road. Shortly after turning in, you will see Little Gotham on the right.

Happy Climbing,

Pieter
smartrockclimbing.com Jan 15, 2015
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
Oh ok! haha well at least its on here for other people to go to now. whatever. its kinda cool, something different Aug 16, 2013
Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
I believe this area was discovered by Kristin McNamara and friends in 2005. Back then, most climbers used clean aid techniques to scale the formation. Good job on the FFA's. The area is undeniably classic. Aug 16, 2013

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