East Wall Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 8,949 ft | 2,728 m |
GPS: |
37.87923, -119.34557 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 9,635 total · 69/month | |
Shared By: | Karl K on Aug 5, 2013 | |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Perfect stone for 150 yards+. East facing. 60-80 feet tall for almost its entire length. Could almost start at random have a slab between 5.7 and 5.11....
Most of these climbs seem have only one or two bolts and no anchors - most are R or even X. In addition, leading many of the climbs in the middle/left side of the wall end up below a small overhang and do not seem to have easy access to the top, requiring a long traverse to breaks in the overhang.
Still, a crack at the top (can be tough to hike to) 10-15' above the overhang appears to make it possible to set up dozens of topropes.
Not in SuperTopo, so it tends to be a lot quieter. In my opinion, the rock is much better than even Western Front - with a lot more climbs, just harder to set up.
Most of these climbs seem have only one or two bolts and no anchors - most are R or even X. In addition, leading many of the climbs in the middle/left side of the wall end up below a small overhang and do not seem to have easy access to the top, requiring a long traverse to breaks in the overhang.
Still, a crack at the top (can be tough to hike to) 10-15' above the overhang appears to make it possible to set up dozens of topropes.
Not in SuperTopo, so it tends to be a lot quieter. In my opinion, the rock is much better than even Western Front - with a lot more climbs, just harder to set up.
Getting There
Park along the road just above the Wilderness Permit Center (or the Center lot itself). Walk uphill, starting just east of the turnoff into the Permit/Tuolumne Lodge, walk north (uphill). There is a good trail about 50 yards in, but it may be hard to find the first time.
The first climbs ("Names in the Guidebook,10d") should appear in ~10 minutes. The far end of the wall is another 5-10 minutes of uphill.
If toproping near the left side of the wall, access is from a broken area to the left and then cl.3-4 to get above the climbs (steeper and longer than it seems it should be).
Access (or descent) from the right half of the wall is a cl. 3 corner at the top of the slope - quick and easy.
The first climbs ("Names in the Guidebook,10d") should appear in ~10 minutes. The far end of the wall is another 5-10 minutes of uphill.
If toproping near the left side of the wall, access is from a broken area to the left and then cl.3-4 to get above the climbs (steeper and longer than it seems it should be).
Access (or descent) from the right half of the wall is a cl. 3 corner at the top of the slope - quick and easy.
Classic Climbing Routes at East Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Guidebooks (5)
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