Midget Widget Rock Climbing

Midget Widget is yet another local crag developed through the vision, hard work, and financial investment of Dean and Heather Lords. Others have contributed, but the lion's share of the time and effort belongs to these folks.

Currently, there is no printed guide detailing the climbs here, but I believe the next edition of Sweet Spots by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio will describe this area (in more detail than I have available at present). Do yourself a favor and purchase this excellent guide. Currently, comprehensive information, photos, and maps can be found at Dean's blog: deanlords.blogspot.com/p/mi…

Sitting above and behind Ririe Reservoir is a band of broken basalt. Unlike the basalt that dominates our other local crags, the rock of Midget Widget has fractured neatly, offering desert-style splitters in our own backyard. Routes here are short, often starting on a base layer of severe choss, or worse, mudstone. However, once you access the cracks, fun and varied traditional climbing can be found.

The routes are short enough that considerable caution is necessary. Run it out at your own peril. Be wise and protect as appropriate. Some lines begin and end on faces, and in these cases, bolts protect that portion of the climb. All routes end at sport anchors.

Even though any individual line is, due to the nature of the cliff, somewhat limited, the area itself has the potential for significant development. Plenty of attractive, climbable cracks have not been equipped with anchors and need only a bit of imagination and a sense of adventure.
As with the climbing found at all our crags, please be respectful and always pack out more than you bring in.

Do NOT park at the lower road. The cliff is nearly impossible to access from below, and, more importantly, there is no established place to park. Always park at the parking lot and approach via the short hike from above.

About ratings: This will require a more thorough consensus. For now, I'm rating them between 5.8 and 5.10, but be aware that I have no real idea. You may find them easier or harder. Please rate your thoughts about grades so we can develop a more accurate idea.

About projects: As of June 5, 2013, there are a few projects at Midget Widget, some sport, some trad. Be aware that these lines are possibly not fully equipped/cleaned/described/sent, etc. In other words, user discretion is advised. Stay tuned for further development.