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Routes in Morning Star Gully

Absolute-ly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Creation Science S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Terminal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Give Thanks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gym Certified S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Have You Seen Lucky S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heylel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Killing Your Time Inside S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Revolt Against Maturity S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sh*t sandwich with a side of choss TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Sign of Jonah S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Relief T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown 1 T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Unknown 2 T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 3 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X

Description

Morning sun, sheltered from the wind, good rock for the highway.

Getting There

Park at mile 110, just past Beluga Point on the left hand side of the road, going away from Anchorage. There is a highly littered and vandalized section of rock in a dirt parking area and that is where the trail starts. Go around the boulder and up the obvious wooded area through discontinuous trails. Keep in mind to stay right toward Sunshine Ridge.

To reach the gully from the end of the trail system, continue downward from the top of Sunshine Ridge through thick vegetation (Caution: A Lot of Cow Parsnip and Devils Club) and venture into the steep gully.

OR:

Rap off of the easily accessible chain anchors of the the Unknown 3 route anchors.

Before and after the summer season, the Devil's Club won't be an issue as it is seasonal, but during a rainy summer, the last part of the hike(without rappelling) could prove to be quite irritating with Cow Parsnip/Devil's Club.

15 Total Climbs

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Jay Swamidass
Anchorage, AK
Jay Swamidass   Anchorage, AK
Sadly, as of today (May 14, 2016), just about every bolt in this area is rusted, pitted, and generally terrifying. There are a couple exceptions where someone has re-bolted, but pretty much every route is a serious accident waiting to happen. It's a shame, as the routes look like they would be pretty fun. If anyone has re-bolting experience, I'd be glad to lend a hand and/or $$ to fix up this area.





May 14, 2016

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