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Routes in La Faille

Mario Brousse S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starsky S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surprise Partie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tétine Fétiche S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

La Faille is the area at Le Rocher de la Baume in the crazy slot.

Impressive fins, with a slight leftwards tilt; the south facing side is home to 23 lower angle routes from short and easy 4+ to 7b. The north facing wall is dark, steep (overhanging), colder and mostly hard; 10 or so routes from a short 6a+ to fierce looking thin crack lines to 8b.

Protection is from mostly newer bolts which have replaced the aged and rusty anchors. Most top anchors have nice lower off carabiners.

Parking right in the slot, at the mouth, makes it near possible to belay from the car, but, is also really helpful if you're travelling and want to keep an eye on your stuff. There's also parking nearby down the road. A guidebook mentions to avoid parking in town.

Some route names visible at base.

A fun place to spend a day, or a couple of days.

Getting There

From the town of Sisteron, this area will be the obvious wide slot at Le Rocher de la Baume on the right side of the main rock formation.

If staying in town, just walk across the bridge.

4 Total Climbs

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