Mount Coolum Rock Climbing

Mt. Coolum is a volcanic bulge on the Sunshine Coast of Queensland, approximately one and a half hours north of Brisbane. It forms part of a chain of volcanic plugs which include Glass House Mountains to the south. It was formed 25-26 million years ago in an event where magma forced its way through the rock under the Sunshine Coast which either cooled in dykes and tubes to form plugs (Glass House), or in subsurface bulges to form laccoliths (Coolum). Subsequent erosion of the surrounding landscape has left us with a wide variety volcanic formations excellent for free climbing.

Although there is much rock exposed on Mt. Coolum, climbing is only allowed in the large shady cave on the SE side of the mountain. Here can be found hard steep overhanging sport routes on uniquely featured rhyolite (comendite). Its position on the mountain means the cave receives full shade, good rain cover and usually a southerly breeze allowing relatively cool year round climbing. The mountains proximity to the beach (a few minutes by car), also means there's great surfing and cooling down possibilities.

Routes are generally of good quality, usually sporting multiple kneebars (bring your kneepads), heel/toe hooks, and general trickery. Established routes range from 18-34+ (5.9 - 5.14+), with most routes falling in the 24-31 (5.12- to 5.13+) range. There are several projects abound, some of which are open. Ask a local what's up before getting on projects. Most routes are bolted with stick clips in mind. There are a few pool skimmer handles with clamps around for those without, but be sure to stow them before you leave the crag. There is a mishmash of permadraws, crusty project draws, and unequipped routes, so be sure to bring your own set of draws for maximum flexibility, though there will certainly be climbs to get on if you do not.

The crag is a highly corrosive environment for metals due to the runoff and position near the coast. Routes are slowly being rebolted with titanium glue-ins using pure epoxy, but as of 2026 there are still popular routes with plated steel bolts, and many routes with quickdraws of varying condition. Be cautious of corrosion, and consider seriously before trusting a single corroded bolt or carabiner with your life.

Mount Coolum National Park is home to more than 700 different species of plant as well as the majestic Peregrine Falcon. Be sure to tread lightly and minimize impact and noise. The agreement with the ranger means there is to be no new routing outside of the cave nor any lines where the falcons nest. Failure to comply with these simple restrictions will affect future access. Consult with the local community before bolting anything new.

For more info, topo's, etc. go to TheCrag, which is a more popular site than Mountain Project in Australia.