Elevation: 494 ft
GPS: 42.42, 18.774 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,276 total · 89/month
Shared By: Ben Caruso on Aug 26, 2012 with improvements by Josh Cook
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Description

Set above Kotor, just outside the city walls, "Skaljari" is a small but solid set of sport climbs hidden away from the thousands of tourists below. Almost no one climbs in this country, so chances are if you make it here, you'll have it to yourself. In 2005 some Austrians and locals bolted four routes. The bolting effort has continued in 2018, and now has more than twenty routes from 5c to projects harder than 8a.

Getting There

Get to the Kotor Bus Station (Autobuska Stanica)
Walk up the side street, away from the main road, toward the cliff ahead. At the end of the asphault a small trail leads uphill, many thorn bushes. Stay on the left side of the draw as you ascend, find a handline and keep climbing up and left, you won't miss the orange/yellow face above. 10-15 mins hiking.

40 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Skaljari

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Mr. Toad
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Mutton Bustin'
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Toad Boneyard Wall
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mutton Bustin' Boneyard Wall
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Skaljari »

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Josh Cook
Tivat
Josh Cook   Tivat
I'll offer a bit more beta, as some locals and I are now the primary developers. The local name for this area is Skaljari (pronounced Sh-kal-ya-ri). We have 40 routes ranging from 5c to 8b (and still some projects). There really is something for just about everyone here. We have also cleaned up the approach and you can follow a clear trail and fixed ropes for the steep bits; the trail will lead you right to the Boneyard Wall.

The routes on the Boneyard Wall, from "Sheep are People Too" to "Luda Spilja," all stay dry, even after weeks/months of rain. In the spring and summer, sun hits The Boneyard Wall at around 10am, so it is best to climb there early or very late in the evenings. The far right side of the Boneyard gets sun later and Labud's Cave area won't get sun until about noon.

Be wary of goats above, especially while belaying on the right side, easier routes. Helmets are recommended because the goats can knock off rocks when they are there. The steeper faces of the Boneyard Wall and Labud's Cave are sheltered from rockfall and the risk is low.

The climbing community in and around Kotor/Tivat is still nascent, but you can reach out to me if you are in the area and I'll be happy to show you around if our schedules align.

NOTE: A local paranoid schizophrenic likes to block the approach with all manner of trash and police tape he steals from other places. He has written that it’s private property on a big rusty barrel, which is patently false. You can proceed past the signs, but will have to do so knowing that he might come yell at you. It isn't pleasant, but we have weathered it for a year now. The climbing and approach are on public land, the neighbors love climbers, and the guy has no right to say who can or can't go up there. Unfortunately, it has been hard to get him to stop, though we are still working with his family, the police, and the board of tourism for a resolution. Mar 16, 2018
Tim Henkels
Incheon, Korea
Tim Henkels   Incheon, Korea
Looks like a ton of potential! And....a lot of work. Thanks for the beta Josh. Nov 15, 2018