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Routes in Clear Light Cave

Ancient Chineese Secret S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Annihilator S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Atlantis S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Baby in a Straight Jacket S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Canned Heat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Captain Caveman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Caveman Ecstasy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clear Moment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Countdown to Ecstasy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crowtein S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Eggporkalypse, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Fight Milk S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Fresh Gum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
GNC (Glued Not Chipped) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ghost Meat S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hard Candy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hold Your Fire S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Lawnmower Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meat Tornado S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Merry Christmas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mijou S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mixed Emotions S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Moment of Clarity (1st anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mon Pote Assis S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Natural, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nice is nice S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
PMA S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
PMS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pappi Van Winkle S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Pearls before Swine S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Power Windows S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pranayama S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pranayama Extension S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Raging Canine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ray of Light S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reverse Polarity S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Rising Sun S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Santorini S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
T2 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
TYB (Try Your Best) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Touch the Sky S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Turbulence S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Whammo Extension S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Whamo (1st anchor) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: -11,456 ft
Page Views: 12,571 total · 183/month
Shared By: Andrew Raether on Jul 5, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen
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Description

Sunny and shady walls. The deepest part of the cave almost never gets sun. The left wall gets morning shade. The cave gets morning sun. The right wall gets sun from mid-morning to mid-afternoon.

It is possible to climb at Mt. Potasi through the winter, though January through March can have some days that are just too cold - even snowing. Too hot in the summer (June through September).

Dan McQuade was the first person to develop routes in the cave around 1997 or 1998 - starting with the classic 5.12a, Moment of Clarity. Soon after, Joe Brooks, Brian McCray, Roxanna Brock, and Jared McMillan spent a lot of time in the cave opening new routes. Mike Lewis also added a number of natural routes in the 5.11 to 5.13a range.

The cave routes are mostly steep, long, and gymnastic.

Whether you disagree with the ethics involved in developing some of the routes, the cave is a beautifully majestic place to hang out and climb.

Getting There

40 to 50 minutes. You cannot see the Clear Light Cave from the parking lot, nor during most of the hike. From the parking lot, follow the road west until it ends in the wash. Continue up the wash, following where other climbers have hiked. Stay in the wash until you can see the cave up to your right - follow a steep and loose trail up to the cave.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Clear Light Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
FYI I zeroed out the wrong coordinates, and reassigned the page owner from Mike to Andy at Tom's recommendation in case he wants to place it more accurately? Also let me know if you'd prefer me to revert it back to your page ownership, Mike. 1 day ago

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