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Routes in Gernerfels

Albatros S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gaffer im Nacken S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 1,556 ft
GPS: 49.768, 11.336 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 187 total · 2/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on May 29, 2012
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

This is one of the weirdest formations I've seen so far. It looks like a rhinoceros horn sticking out of the cliff. While the bottom part of the face is vertical to slightly slabby, the horn section sticks out so severely that it's practically horizontal at first and it's difficult to use your feet. Also, the bottom part is technically difficult, while the top is very pocketed. This makes for one of the coolest crags in all of the Frankenjura! Too bad there aren't more routes on it...
Gernerfels is also on private property. You can't climb here on Sundays or Holidays or after 7pm, so check your German (more specifically Bavarian) calendar before coming. Also, consider how you'd like it to walk into your back yard and find a big turd before you go to the bathroom. Finally while I was here, the chickens were roaming in the yard instead of kept in the coop, and the rooster is a little bastard!

Getting There

Drive to the church in Gößweinstein and head up the street on the side of the church (Viktor von Scheffel Straße). On the back side of the church is a street called "Am Kreuzberg" where you drive up and follow to a building called Pfarrerheim (Priests Home). You can park in the parking lot there.
Walk in front of the Pfarrerheim and on the trail which goes back around it and about 20 feet after passing the Holy Picture number III you'll see a little tiny path into the woods. Take this path straight to the crag. 5 minute walk.

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