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Areas in Mill Creek North Rim

Big Science 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Cracktrilogy 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
First Girlfriend Buttress 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Little Heroes 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lower Tier 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
No Sweat 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Pirate Cove 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Tick Farm 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Tiger Stripe 1 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Upper Tier 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 5,036 ft
GPS: 46.31, -114.239 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 20,567 total, 265/month
Shared By: Josh Kornish on Aug 1, 2011
Admins: grk10vq
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Description

An excellent destination for climbing in western Montana, Mill Creek features everything from TR to multi-pitch trad. This area get some decent exposure to the sun in the winter allowing it to be climbed almost year round. This area is infamous for it's ticks so be prepared. Some new routes are being put up by a couple of professors from the University of Montana. Please see millcreekreport.blogspot.com. Downloadable guide available there.

A great destination with a lot of potential. Bring a helmet!!! I have had close calls with rock falling from the big walls. Have fun!

Getting There

From Missoula: Drive about 35 miles south on US 93. You will see Mill Creek Trail Road on your right. Drive up the road until you reach the trailhead which has a pit toilet and parking. Take the trail about a half mile up until you reach a log bridge. Cross that take a left and continue for about the same distance until you reach trail headed up the mountain to the seemingly obvious wall. Approach takes roughly 30-60 minutes. An early start is nice.

The trailhead is off of Cow Creek Road out of Pinesdale.

The Drive:

Take Highway 93 south from Missoula toward Hamilton.
Mile marker 54, look for Sheafman Creek Road on the right.
Turn west and drive 1 mile to the top of a s.hort steep hill.
Turn sharp left to stay on Sheafman Creek
Follow the road a couple of miles including a sharp right curve.
At stop sign turn left onto Main and drive into Pinesdale.
Approx. .9 miles from stop sign, brown forest service sign “Sheafman Creek Trail”
Turn right onto West Cow Creek dirt road. (GPS Coord: 46.323650, -114.218033)
Drive slowly through the neighborhood.
Park at gate (1/2 mile), or if gate open (summer), park at right hairpin (1 mile).
Approach trail begins at hairpin. (GPS Coord: 46.316267, -114.229533)

The Hike:

Follow the trail through a gate and tress for just a few hundred yards down and into a deep drainage. The trail will leads back out of the drainage and curve around to the crest of the ridgeline in about 200 yards. Look for a large cairn (sometimes missing) and clearly-traveled trail branching off sharply uphill along the ridge until it turns sharp left into Mill Creek Canyon. Follow this trail for about 3/4 of a mile to the climbs.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mill Creek North Rim

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Kurt HR Krueger
Missoula, MT
Kurt HR Krueger   Missoula, MT
The last route at the North Rim before the moratorium on the far end of the Tick Wall I’m calling: Better Friends of the Bitterroot. It is hard. I thought it was such a good route name with such an important message, I decided to use it again. I friend has a new area above an hour above the Monastery (Colorado). A couple of routes over from Ground Up Peggy is the newest route – Better Friends of the Bitterroot (about 5.8 A0). I will probably be adding another trad route at the North Rim (maybe with a little aid) but don't have a name yet. Aug 28, 2017
Kurt HR Krueger
Missoula, MT
Kurt HR Krueger   Missoula, MT
We are back losing bolts. The anchor bolts on top of Pie for Pie for Strength are gone. The last pitch is 5.9 and if you do it there is a lower off the last protection bolt. But most people did rap off the 5th pitch and then walk off anyway so ending the climb after the 4th pitch isn't that bad of idea.

Cole, Dave and I have replaced bolts before and can do again. We could also rap off trees on top without slings. This will kill the tree at some point but I'm just making this comment to piss off the vandals who think they are doing "what?". Nov 23, 2016
there are other sport areas near mill,with even better climbing.check out mulky and rattler near Drummond,or the many excellent routes up lolo.honest about your grades?parking lot wall in Blodgett has some fine new lines and similar older routes all on fine stone..lost horse also offers good crack climbs,up to four pitches! Oct 6, 2016
to avoid traffic conflicts,access
north rim by mill cr. trail and the old climber's trail.after the bridge,take trail up hill to a low cliffband.go left up an old game trail hard to follow after the fire. Sep 26, 2016
rock and ice in june guide,week 23 features mill's north rim.this area is already suffering from overuse and wildlife issues.visitors should be aware ofVANDALISM TO THE LOWEST BOLTS ON SEVERAL ROUTES!!!!!also,check posts about access from mill cr. trail and raptor closures!!! Sep 26, 2016
Mill Creek North Rim "tick wall" and routes up canyon to the classic no sweat arête are affected by raptor closures. Check with the Forest Service for these seasonal restrictions at the Supervisors Office in Hamilton. Aug 18, 2016
Josh Kornish
tufaclimbing.com
Josh Kornish   tufaclimbing.com
Kyle,

You can send them a message through their MP account or you directly email the Western Montana Climber's Coalition at wmtclimberscoalition @ gmail.com Jun 25, 2015
Kyle vH  
How could I go about getting an invite to the mill creek blog? Jun 24, 2015
Josh Kornish
tufaclimbing.com
Josh Kornish   tufaclimbing.com
Dave,

There are some issues with one individual in particular. Check out the Mill Creek Report blog to stay up to date with the issue.

The Western Montana Climber's Coalition is working with the Forest Service on this issue. Oct 14, 2014
DaveT
Albuquerque
DaveT   Albuquerque
I climbed here mid Sept and the first bolt on many climbs was partially removed. It looked like some kind of statement, not poor bolting. Is there an access fight going on or something? Oct 14, 2014
THE HIKE (addition)

To extrapolate on the previous description of the hike and help people find the trail... where it mentions to "look for a large cairn and a clearly-traveled trail toward the routes" I can assure that at this time there will be no easily noticeable trail, let alone a cairn. What you want to be on the lookout for is what resembles a beaver dam's worth of sticks, logs, and twigs on your right. Truthfully its a lot harder to miss than a cairn. (This is a result of an anonymous local who apparently hates climbers. I could rant for a while here but I'll bite my tongue). Anyway, when in doubt look for the stick and log piles because they are probably right on top of the trail. Follow alongside the intermittent piles and you will find yourself at the crag without any problems.

(Just as a heads up I fully expect this post to be totally outdated in a couple years tops). May 27, 2014
The Drive
Highway 93 south from Missoula toward Hamilton.
Mile marker 54, look for Sheafman Creek Road on the right.
Turn west and drive 1 mile to the top of a s.hort steep hill.
Turn sharp left to stay on Sheafman Creek
Follow the road a couple of miles including a sharp right curve.
At stop sign turn left onto Main and drive into Pinesdale.
Approx. .9 miles from stop sign, brown forest service sign “Sheafman Creek Trail”
Turn right onto West Cow Creek dirt road. (GPS Coord: 46.323650, -114.218033)
Drive slowly through the neighborhood.
Park at gate (1/2 mile), or if gate open (summer), park at right hairpin (1 mile).
Approach trail begins at hairpin. (GPS Coord: 46.316267, -114.229533)

The Hike
Follow the trail through a gate and tress for just a few hundred yards down and into a deep drainage. The trail will leads back out of the drainage and curve around to the crest of the ridgeline in about 200 yards. Look for a large cairn (sometimes missing) and clearly-traveled trail branching off sharply uphill along the ridge until it turns sharp left into Mill Creek Canyon. Follow this trail for about 3/4 of a mile to the climbs. Feb 25, 2012

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