Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,070 total · 43/month
Shared By: Josh Kornish on Jul 14, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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Great for anyone learning the ropes of multipitching. No hanging Belays just good fun. You can set up a belay pretty much anywhere you would like.


roughly 45 minute approach. main trail, cross bridge, take left, 10 minutes later you will go right on the approach trail. Keep going until you see the gully, go half way up and there will be a great ledge with a fixed .5 C4 Great placements all the way through. I used my C4 #1s the most. Easy climb with solid belay stations. While it is possible to rap off in the gully I do not recommend that. . Rapping down route would be a convenient way to go if you do not mind leaving some webbing. Great rock quality some loose rock, helmets a must. There is a variation to the top of the spire that runs at 10c. There are many variations to this and some are very hard to protect due to the poor rock quality. There is an easy 5.5 on the very back with a fixed stake for rapping off.

bring water


Single Rack
I thought a few more comments might be useful to add to the above post.

A very enjoyable route overall, especially towards the top.

After taking a left after the bridge, walk until a small rise in the trail where a tree has been cut out to mark the beginning to the approach trail.

At the base, it is very easy to go up the direct start. This is about a pitch of wandery, relatively low quality 5.8, and can be avoided by entering the main gully to the left of the arete before beginning, and ascending to the right to the base of the climb. As of 1/25/15, the fixed c4 is still at the base of the climb.

We almost climbed the arete in two pitches close to 60 meters, with a third pitch of about 10 feet to the prominent ledge. With a 70 meter rope, the route could be climbed in two pitches. Although the arete can be climbed several different ways, we chose to traverse climbers right after about 20 feet of climbing, and found it enjoyable. The second pitch in particular on the climbers right is excellent.

To descend, follow the trail to the east off of the ledge to gain a saddle, and descend this eastward on the trail.

Alpine draws very useful! Jan 25, 2015
Dlent lent  
beautiful climb in a beautiful canyon Jun 19, 2015
Harrison Schutt
Missoula, MT
Harrison Schutt   Missoula, MT
Had a great time with a large group on this climb. We had trouble finding the true start, and climbed up some not so 5.7 ground to a belay. from there it was obvious as to where the climb went and where to belay from. Such a beautiful place to climb in! Bang on suspect holds, and wear a helmet! Sep 26, 2017
Ishani Sawant
Ishani Sawant   india
Lovely route but the approach hike and hike after completing routes is the only thing I did not like ;) Jun 16, 2018
Simon Buzzard
Missoula, MT
Simon Buzzard   Missoula, MT
I also thought this was an enjoyable route, and I also had trouble finding the start.

The climbers trail takes off from the main trail after you pass the talus fields. It departs the main trail when the trail starts to go uphill and away from the creek. The climbers trail switch backs up to a broken cliff band that you have to scramble through to reach the gully.

Once you're in the gully, don't continue up. You want to exit the gully on looker's right to gain the 4th class arete that will get you up to the start of the climb (see photo with start indicated).

I did not find a fixed C4 at the base of the climb as of 6/15/18. To start the climb, belay from right side of the arete and traverse left for 15 feet to gain the arete proper (see photo of climber starting the first pitch). As soon as you gain the arete you'll be looking up a sweet 5.7 crack.

As others have stated, many options exist; follow the arete, moving right when necessary, then back left to stay on the arete. We used a double rack because of gear anchors.

Also, it's worth noting that the walk off does not get you back to the base of the climb, so it is not recommended to leave anything at the base unless you want to get more hiking in. Jun 18, 2018