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Partington Cove Bouldering
Routes in Partington Cove
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Black rock hole V0 4 |
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Cardiac Arête V0 4 |
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Crack/Flake climb V0 4 |
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Left wall traverse V0 4 |
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Low ball extravaganza V0 4 |
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Pockets up face V0+ 4+ |
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Slopers on a slab V0 4 |
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| Elevation: | 5 ft |
| GPS: |
36.174, -121.6968 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 14,651 total · 97/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Stearns on Apr 14, 2011 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This is a beautiful oceanside location with some okay climbing. The area consists of mostly bouldering (I spotted 1 bolt) on wave polished granite. The rock has been beaten up by faulting, so quality ranges from excellent to questionable. Tap on stuff and you'll be fine. The deformation makes for some neat carbonate/limestone pockets also.
Again the draw of this area is being RIGHT NEXT to the ocean. I would recommend stopping here if you are in the vicinity, but not driving from L.A. Again the ocean is very close so common sense rules, and you should probably have an idea about tide levels.
Ocean level can be scoped from the car, but can be tricky because you cannot see the climbs from the road.
You can see from the submitted route names I don't have a clue apart from my experience here. Explore and decide for yourself.
Again the draw of this area is being RIGHT NEXT to the ocean. I would recommend stopping here if you are in the vicinity, but not driving from L.A. Again the ocean is very close so common sense rules, and you should probably have an idea about tide levels.
Ocean level can be scoped from the car, but can be tricky because you cannot see the climbs from the road.
You can see from the submitted route names I don't have a clue apart from my experience here. Explore and decide for yourself.
Getting There
From Big Sur: Drive ~9 miles south on CA-1. There is a large left bend in the road (big drainage coming into the ocean).
From Lucia: Drive ~15 miles north on CA-1 and repeat directions above.
Park at one of several pull outs along each side of the road. Approach time is 10-20 minutes depending on how many kelp forest signs you read on the way.
Walk down the dirt road. Cross the bridge and go through the tunnel. Once you reach the sign about dangerous ocean stuff (read it), and hug the hillside around to the right. You will eventually arrive at a platform with a couple boulders and a few short walls.
There might be more climbing down the main trail (w/o crossing the bridge), but I didn't check it out.
From Lucia: Drive ~15 miles north on CA-1 and repeat directions above.
Park at one of several pull outs along each side of the road. Approach time is 10-20 minutes depending on how many kelp forest signs you read on the way.
Walk down the dirt road. Cross the bridge and go through the tunnel. Once you reach the sign about dangerous ocean stuff (read it), and hug the hillside around to the right. You will eventually arrive at a platform with a couple boulders and a few short walls.
There might be more climbing down the main trail (w/o crossing the bridge), but I didn't check it out.
Classic Climbing Routes at Partington Cove
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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