The Gypsies Rock Climbing
Routes in The Gypsies
|Baby Gypsy - South face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Baby Gypsy-North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Franklin's Tower - Dark Star T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Franklin's Tower - The Mine Shaft T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Lower Gypsy-East Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 R|
|Middle Gypsy-Sandstone Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 R|
|Phat Gypsy - DJ's Excellent Adventure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Shared By:||Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThese are a group of towers that include both aid and free climbing routes. Most of the routes were put up in the 1990s.
Getting ThereThese towers are a pain to get to. They are a cluster of 3 and half towers located in-between Ute and Red Canyon.
By far, the easiest approach is just drive through the neighborhood directly below them, get as close as possible, and hike straight up drainages to them. But this approach requires crossing private property, and there are several "No Monument Access" signs on the roads there.
Another option is to head up to Red Canyon (which also requires crossing private property unless you start in a drainage from S. Camp Road, i.e. very far away) and then head up the bench and contour west to the towers. The third option with no access issues is to go to the Liberty Cap trailhead, follow that up to the bench, and head on over to the towers. This way is very long! It is best to seek permission to cross private property.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Gypsies
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season