Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Gypsies

Baby Gypsy - South face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Gypsy-North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Franklin's Tower - Dark Star T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Franklin's Tower - The Mine Shaft T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Gypsy-East Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 R
Middle Gypsy-Sandstone Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 R
Phat Gypsy - DJ's Excellent Adventure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:

Description

These are a group of towers that include both aid and free climbing routes. Most of the routes were put up in the 1990s.

Getting There

These towers are a pain to get to. They are a cluster of 3 and half towers located in-between Ute and Red Canyon.

By far, the easiest approach is just drive through the neighborhood directly below them, get as close as possible, and hike straight up drainages to them. But this approach requires crossing private property, and there are several "No Monument Access" signs on the roads there.

Another option is to head up to Red Canyon (which also requires crossing private property unless you start in a drainage from S. Camp Road, i.e. very far away) and then head up the bench and contour west to the towers. The third option with no access issues is to go to the Liberty Cap trailhead, follow that up to the bench, and head on over to the towers. This way is very long! It is best to seek permission to cross private property.

7 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Gypsies Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Gypsies

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in The Gypsies »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Yes, I should probably change that just to avoid confusion, originally we thought upper Gypsy was the wide butte separated from the rim, but after talking with Luke about anchors and rereading DR, we realized that it was not in the book. It's a good climb, on the side that faces the Grand Junction entrance kiosk. Oct 12, 2014
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
I still don't understand which is which. Desert Rock has Upper, Middle, and baby Gypsy. Is the DJ's Excellent Adventure actually on the fourth tower (more like a butte)? Oct 11, 2014

More About The Gypsies

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within The Gypsies (11)

Most Popular · Newest