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Routes in Trippy Rock

First Dose S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leisure Suit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roto Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smells like Pootang S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tweedle Dee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tweedle Doo TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Elevation: 7,281 ft
GPS: 39.274, -119.942 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 8,162 total, 91/month
Shared By: Chris Ellis on Aug 4, 2010
Admins: Justin Johnsen

Trippy Rock

Incline Village, NV @ Lake Tahoe

75 feet high, 100 feet across.

5 routes on the main wall and 2 routes on the northwest face all of which can be climbed with many variations.

Roto Arete 5.9
Pootang 5.11c
Leisure Suit 5.11b
Crimper Overdose 5.11a
First Dose 5.10b
Tweedle Dee 5.5
Tweedle Doo 5.5

FA's:
Oliver Datwyler, William Jones, Antu Cerretti, Ryan Wolf

Getting There

3.2 miles north of Incline Village, Nevada on highway 431. Parking is across from Fairview Blvd. on the dirt road with the locked gate.

Hike up the dirt road and past the gate for 200 yards then break off right onto the climbers trail for another 100 yards. The main wall will be seen up the hill and through the trees.

All anchors on top can be reached via a third-class climb up the backside.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Trippy Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smells like Pootang
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Smells like Pootang 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Frank LaForge
Incline Village, NV
Frank LaForge   Incline Village, NV
Found a certain climbing book in this area last weekend (6/17/17). If it was yours, send me an email at fzlaforge@hollandhart.com and tell me the name of the book. Jun 26, 2017
Ben May
Escondido, CA
Ben May   Escondido, CA
Hey ScoRo, I'm headed to this area this weekend and plan to do a little bouldering. I'm there for a wedding but hope to get out at least once. Thanks for the info. Oct 5, 2016
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
Myself and a crew from Sierra Nevada College used to frequent this area in 2002-4. We cleaned and 'developed' many problems, certainly some had already been done, but I'd like to know more about the history of bouldering at this little, now insanely obscure area (due to all the bouldering development in Tahoe).

Walking up the road the first short wide boulder one comes to had two problems we enjoyed working. The first we called Optimus Prime, starting low on a positive rail on the left side of the boulder, working pinches and slopers to little dishes on the slab above and a nice rock over top out.

The other started in the middle of the face facing the road, on two opposing and positive incut crimps, slap to sloping lip and figure out how to top out. The third on this boulder I spent a few of my early years working, start as for the previously mentioned boulder, then slap to the lip and traverse into Optimus Prime, sometimes on slopers, sometimes dropping below the lip on other holds, very hard for me at the time (V4/5?) and I named it Bigfoot as I watched the sun set and sipped on the identically named beverage by myself.

Just behind this first boulder is a nice, now lichen covered face, with an amazing problem that starts on the lower right side on a shelf if I recall, works left on a great sequence of edges, to a big deadpoint or dyno to a sweet rail, then top-out. Our Japanese friend Tai Chi named it 'Butterfly'. Before he sent it we called it "No Ninjas Allowed", because he, despite his climbing prowess, couldn't pull it off for some reason!

Moving uphill behind this boulder was a really cool steep narrow face, harder, can't remember much about it. I hope these problems continue to get visits from fledgling SNC climbers, as well as the routes above. There are other great problems higher up near Trippy Rock proper, a sick slick underclinging crimpy rad thing just to the left of the crag, cool stuff up behind the crag (highball V0/1 just above the easy face with the 5.4/5.5 on it). Great traverses and easier stuff just before reaching the talus below the crag, look left. On one of these, there is a tiny cave, start super low on slopers, slap left, throw a heel up right, more slapping, throw to the lip. We called it "Match me a Bowl" as you matched on the slopey bowl shaped hold on the right, or something like that.

So what's up, what's the history here? Oct 16, 2014

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