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Routes in Elderberry Buttress

Casanova T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Poomerang T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C1
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Description

High above the floor of Pine Creek Canyon, Elderberry Buttress is a clean slab of some of the area's best granite. Unlike other more "modern" crags in Pine Creek, Elderberry offers an adventurous approach and descent, multi-pitch climbs and traditionally protected routes.



Getting There

Park, as for the PSOM Pinnacle area, at the deciduous trees lining the creek that drains the Pratt's Crack/Scheelite Canyon area. Take your time here to spy the big SE facing shield of the Buttress and identify the gully immediately below. Find a pretty good trail through the sage to the base of the PSOM Pinnacle slabs. From this base work up and right to the gully that drains from the base of the Buttress. The very gut of this gully, near the bottom is certainly climbable though it's a water-polished, 5th class chockstoned chimney. Instead find a series of 4th class ledges zigzagging up starting about 100 feet left of the chimneys. About 150 feet up this series of ledges work back and right into the gut of the gully. (Alternatively, spy a pair of rappel bolts half-way between the chimney and the ledge system. A poorly protected 100 foot pitch of 5.7 leads straight to these bolts. From the bolts, work back right to the gully.) Once in the gully, above the lowest and steepest chimney section, work up a series of goofy 4th to low 5th class steps eventually heading left to the prominent and large juniper shading a luxurious ledge beneath the "start" of Elderberry Buttress' routes.

3 Total Climbs

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Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
For the approach, after the hike passing PSOM, start by going up and a little left on some 4th class ledges. When you get to a shelf with a pair of nice bolts with fixed binners, go far right till you hit a diahedral. There are 2 steps of very low fifth that will put you at a small ramp going left. After a short slot, you will have arrived at the prominent tree half way up the buttress. That's where the Regular Route and other climbs start.

Descent: I found the start of raps in the current bishop guide to be not in a very good spot. Better start about 50 ft west. There are currently some cordalettes on the summit ledge before you climb over the summit block/step. They are rapped around a huge boulder. Go down this way as you will have much lesser chance of getting the ropes stuck. You will need at least an 80m rope for the very last rap to the tree.
You can keep rapping off the tree on some cords left behind to bypass the loose approach/descent gully. May 29, 2017

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