Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1100 ft (333 m), 11 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||1,073 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Brandon Adams on Jan 7, 2018|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Pitch 2: 5.8 Traverse right and climb moderate face. Belay at the right set of anchors. 2 bolts, 20 meters.
Pitch 3: 5.10a Lieback up past bolts to reach a crack system that runs up and right to the next belay. Gear and 2 bolts, 35 meters.
Pitch 4: 5.10c Start right then follow bolt line to anchor. Slab and face climbing. 8 bolts, 30 meters.
Pitch 5: 5.6 Climb up to a bolt over a ledge and moderate terrain, then up and right to an anchor on a boulder perched up top. Gear and 1 bolt, 25 meters.
Welcome to the midway ledge. Move belay up and right to the beginning of the Regular Route.
Pitch 6: 5.11a Classic pitch. Start as for the Regular Route then bust right onto the face, following a bolt line. Climb face then traverse up and right on slab to a feature that accepts finger sized gear. Straight up over easier terrain to an anchor. Gear and 8 bolts, 40 meters.
Pitch 7: 5.12 The big one. Climb the 5.10 finger to hands crack up to the roof. Burl and finesse (yes, both) your way out the roof to an anchor on a perch above the lip. Gear and 1 bolt equipped with a permadraw, 20 meters.
Pitch 8: 5.11d Follow the moderate wide crack littered with face holds past a bolt to a traverse left. Climb the fun hand crack to the route's slab crux. Exposed arete slab boulder problem past three more bolts leads to an anchor. Great fun. Gear and 4 bolts, 30 meters.
Pitch 9: 5.7 Continue right on the ridge then up blocky crack systems to an anchor. Gear, 30 meters.
Pitch 10: 5.10c Lieback, friction, and face climb while following a bolt line. Stellar finale pitch to Casanova. Gear and 7 bolts, 30 meters.
Move belay through tabletop tunnel through.
Pitch 11: 5.8 Finish on Regular Route. Crack or fun face right of arete to the top. Gear, 15 meters.
Walk to far end of ledge to visible rap station. Rappel Joint Effort with single 70 meter rope, 2 bolt rap stations, 5 rappels to midway ledge.
It's nice to link pitches 1+2 and 4+5. Make sure to properly extend 1st pitch if linking into 2nd.
All hardware 3/8" and stainless.
Possible to rappel from atop roof with single 70. Anchors 6 and 7 equipped with rings. From 6 rappel down and right, then scramble down ledge system.
With permadraw in pitch 7 roof, there is no fear of leaving gear. Go for it!
Also, possible to traverse into regular route from belay 6 and bypass the pitch 7 roof.