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Routes in Elderberry Buttress

Casanova T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Poomerang T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C1
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 11 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brandon Adams
Page Views: 390 total · 71/month
Shared By: Brandon Adams on Jan 7, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Pitch 1: 5.9 Low Hanging Fruit. Left facing corner to step right under a roof. Up face to anchors. Gear and 1 bolt, 30 meters.
Pitch 2: 5.8 Traverse right and climb moderate face. Belay at the right set of anchors. 2 bolts, 20 meters.
Pitch 3: 5.10a Lieback up past bolts to reach a crack system that runs up and right to the next belay. Gear and 2 bolts, 35 meters.
Pitch 4: 5.10c Start right then follow bolt line to anchor. Slab and face climbing. 8 bolts, 30 meters.
Pitch 5: 5.6 Climb up to a bolt over a ledge and moderate terrain, then up and right to an anchor on a boulder perched up top. Gear and 1 bolt, 25 meters.
Welcome to the midway ledge. Move belay up and right to the beginning of the Regular Route.
Pitch 6: 5.11a Classic pitch. Start as for the Regular Route then bust right onto the face, following a bolt line. Climb face then traverse up and right on slab to a feature that accepts finger sized gear. Straight up over easier terrain to an anchor. Gear and 8 bolts, 40 meters.
Pitch 7: 5.12b The big one. Climb the 5.10 finger to hands crack up to the roof. Burl and finesse (yes, both) your way out the roof to an anchor on a perch above the lip. Gear and 1 bolt equipped with a permadraw, 20 meters.
Pitch 8: 5.11d Follow the moderate wide crack littered with face holds past a bolt to a traverse left. Climb the fun hand crack to the route's slab crux. Exposed arete slab boulder problem past three more bolts leads to an anchor. Great fun. Gear and 4 bolts, 30 meters.
Pitch 9: 5.7 Continue right on the ridge then up blocky crack systems to an anchor. Gear, 30 meters.
Pitch 10: 5.10c Lieback, friction, and face climb while following a bolt line. Stellar finale pitch to Casanova. Gear and 7 bolts, 30 meters.
Move belay through tabletop tunnel through.
Pitch 11: 5.8 Finish on Regular Route. Crack or fun face right of arete to the top. Gear, 15 meters.

Descent:
Walk to far end of ledge to visible rap station. Rappel Joint Effort with single 70 meter rope, 2 bolt rap stations, 5 rappels to midway ledge.

Notes:
It's nice to link pitches 1+2 and 4+5. Make sure to properly extend 1st pitch if linking into 2nd.

All hardware 3/8" and stainless.

Possible to rappel from atop roof with single 70. Anchors 6 and 7 equipped with rings. From 6 rappel down and right, then scramble down ledge system.

With permadraw in pitch 7 roof, there is no fear of leaving gear. Go for it!

Also, possible to traverse into regular route from belay 6 and bypass the pitch 7 roof.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Cams 1x .4"-2.5" (BD .2-2)
12 draws, including several extendables
70m rope

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