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Routes in Elderberry Buttress

Casanova T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Poomerang T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C1
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 11 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brandon Adams
Page Views: 69 total · 69/month
Shared By: BighornAdams Adams on Jan 7, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Pitch 1: 5.9 Low Hanging Fruit. Left facing corner to step right. Up face to anchors. Gear and 1 bolt, 30 meters.
Pitch 2: 5.7 Traverse right and climb moderate face. Belay at the right set of anchors. 2 bolts, 20 meters.
Pitch 3: 5.10- Lieback up past bolts to reach a crack system that runs up and right to the next belay. Gear and 2 bolts, 35 meters.
Pitch 4: 5.10 Follow bolt line to anchor. Slab and face climbing. 8 bolts, 30 meters.
Pitch 5: 5.6 climb up to bolt over a ledge and moderate terrain, then up and right to an anchor on a boulder perched up top. Gear and 1 bolt, 25 meters.
Welcome to the midway ledge. Move belay up and right to the beginning of the Regular Route.
Pitch 6: 5.10+ Start as for the Regular Route then bust right onto the face, following a bolt line. Climb face then traverse up and right on slab to a feature that accepts gear. Straight up over easier terrain to an anchor. Gear and 9 bolts, 40 meters.
Pitch 7: 5.12 The big one. Climb the 5.10 finger to hands crack up to the roof. Burl and finesse (yes, both) your way out the roof to an anchor on a perch above the lip. Gear and 1 bolt equipped with a permadraw, 20 meters.
Pitch 8: 5.11+ Follow the moderate wide crack littered with face holds past a bolt to a traverse left. Climb the fun hand crack to the routes slab crux. Exposed arete slab climbing past three more bolts leads to an anchor. Gear and 4 bolts, 30 meters.
Pitch 9: 5.7 Continue right on the ridge then up blocky crack systems to an anchor. Gear, 30 meters.
Pitch 10: 5.10 Lieback, friction, and face climb while following a bolt line. Stellar and super fun finale pitch to Casanova. Gear and 7 bolts, 30 meters.
Move belay through tabletop tunnel through.
Pitch 11: 5.8 Finish on Regular Route. Crack or face on arete to the top. Gear, 15 meters.

Walk to far end of ledge to visible rap station. Rappel Joint Effort with single 70 meter rope, 2 bolt rap stations, 5 rappels to midway ledge.

It's nice to link pitches 1+2 and 4+5.

All hardware 3/8" and stainless.

Possible to rappel from atop roof with single 70. Anchors 6 and 7 equipped with rings. From 6 rappel down and right, then scramble down ledge system.

With permadraw in pitch 7 roof, there is no fear of leaving gear, go for it!


Cams 1x .4"-2.5" (BD .2-2)
12 draws, including several extendables
70m rope