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Routes in Old Glory

Flagstone S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Free At Last T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 5,977 ft
GPS: 40.333, -111.607 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Shaun Roundy on May 14, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

Good climbing rock on Cascade is rare, and this area has a mix of both good and bad, so be careful. Even on the good routes, you'll find spots piled with limestone ready to be pushed down the mountain with a gentle kick.

Some areas, however, have good, fun rock, and there's potential for a bit more development.

It's on the northwest face of Cascade, so there's mostly shade. You may pass some hikers down low, but few people actually climb here.

The area got its name from the flag-like fold of rock and the fact that it was first climbed by two separate parties on July 4, 1999.

Getting There

If you stand in the parking lot along the highway just above Nunn's Park (the pull out is on the north/downcanyon lane, and just down canyon from the lower Bridal Veil/Nunn's Park turn off) and look southeast, you'll see a giant fold of rock 1/4 way up the mountain. This is Old Glory.

You'll first hike to the waterfall 100 yards west (climber's right), then bushwhack over to the climbs.

Cross the highway and hike up the dirt road angling southwest up the mountain side. Pass through a gate and either follow a steep, rocky road/ravine straight up (the "road" ends when it reaches the Great Western Trail - continue straight up) or continue up the road till you reach another road heading back up canyon to the waterfall.

You can also hike the Great Western Trail from the lower Bridal Veil parking lot, cutting upward at the same point or continuing on to the road.

When the road turns upward towards the falls, hike most of the way to the falls before cutting across left. This is much easier going that cutting across lower down. The falls are refreshing and worth visiting anyway.

As you climb across and up to meet the cliff band, you'll find a high point where it's possible to scramble up onto the next cliff band. There are also 3 bolts just to the left where the climbing is even easier but more exposed.

Ascend here for Free at Last (which is then a short obvious (since there's nowhere else to go) walk up canyon), or continue across and below the ephemeral falls for Doggy Llama, All Play and No Work, etc.

To reach the upper section of Old Glory is a big hassle. Either hike down canyon from the first falls, climb up and left in the next ravine, then cross over above the falls, bushwhack a lot to the top of Old Glory and rappel down into it past a 25' chock stone, or possibly pass through the ephemeral falls, then climb up the canyon just up canyon from there. I haven't hiked all the way up that way, but it looks good.

Before you go way up there, though, know that it's *tough* climbing, mostly smooth rock, bad pro, and I'm not sure any routes go safely without someone drilling some anchors from above to work the few weaknesses there.

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