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Elevation: | 4,377 ft | 1,334 m |
GPS: |
42.68103, -113.0098 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 22,647 total · 119/month | |
Shared By: | Christine E. on Apr 30, 2009 | |
Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Access Issue: 1) As of August 17, 2023, all forms of rock climbing on the BLM managed portion of Massacre Rocks is CLOSED. Rock climbing on Idaho State Land at Massacre remains OPEN. 2) Do not trespass on private 'short cut' farming roads into Massacre.
Details
1) The Bureau of Land Management released the Cedar Fields Record of Decision (ROD) for rock climbing on BLM and BOR lands (the BLM 'managed' lands at Massacre Rocks). The closure include (but not limited to) popular crags/wall like Le Petite Covette, French Wall, Hobbit Wall, the Owl Cove, Main Wall, Wild Onion, Boulder Wall, Play Pen, Farmyard, Forbidden Planet, Far Side, Royalty Point, Windmill Wall, the Outback, Down Under, Camptown Towers, Westworld, and Mighty Mite Wall. All closed crags/walls that are in the MP database are designated CLOSED.
IMPORTANT: All the crags on Idaho State land remain OPEN including popular crags/walls like All American, Rural Wall, Thelma and Louise Wall, South of the Border, Eagle Wall, Echo Point, Funny Business, Disney Walls, Lighting Bolt Wall, Red Light District, Love Connection, Choss Factory, Dance Wall, Gang Fight, Game Show, King Wall, Dragon's Den, Summer Wall, Wall of Zen, and the Morgue.
2) The land owners are monitoring their farm roads and are asking climbers not to trespass and if they catch you, they will ask you to turn around. There is concern about liability, near misses at high speeds on the farm roads, and disruption of hunting on the cedar mound on their property. When using the BLM access route, there is a short section of private land between two metal gates that is also being monitored by the land owner for trespassing. Fortunately, there is an option to avoid this stretch. Adjacent to the private metal gate, there is a new public metal gate separating BLM land from Idaho State public land. Go through the right hand gate (close it behind you) and follow a newly cut road until you can join the regular 2 track road.
IMPORTANT: All the crags on Idaho State land remain OPEN including popular crags/walls like All American, Rural Wall, Thelma and Louise Wall, South of the Border, Eagle Wall, Echo Point, Funny Business, Disney Walls, Lighting Bolt Wall, Red Light District, Love Connection, Choss Factory, Dance Wall, Gang Fight, Game Show, King Wall, Dragon's Den, Summer Wall, Wall of Zen, and the Morgue.
2) The land owners are monitoring their farm roads and are asking climbers not to trespass and if they catch you, they will ask you to turn around. There is concern about liability, near misses at high speeds on the farm roads, and disruption of hunting on the cedar mound on their property. When using the BLM access route, there is a short section of private land between two metal gates that is also being monitored by the land owner for trespassing. Fortunately, there is an option to avoid this stretch. Adjacent to the private metal gate, there is a new public metal gate separating BLM land from Idaho State public land. Go through the right hand gate (close it behind you) and follow a newly cut road until you can join the regular 2 track road.
Description
Red Light District is one of the most popular destinations at Massacre Rocks, second only the All American Area and it has one of the shortest approaches. The routes here run the full range from moderate to hard and short 30' climbs to a few 90 foot routes. The crag has a slight bend and the rock faces either east or southeast.
The Red light district has 3 closely spaced sections. On the left end is the tallest wall with half a dozen mostly moderate routes. The middle section is a nice 60 or 70 feet in height and has some major classic climbs like Love Slave, Barbara Dare, and Sweaty Betty. The right section is shorter but hosts some popular climbs like Woody in the Woods and Scared Stiff.
The Red light district has 3 closely spaced sections. On the left end is the tallest wall with half a dozen mostly moderate routes. The middle section is a nice 60 or 70 feet in height and has some major classic climbs like Love Slave, Barbara Dare, and Sweaty Betty. The right section is shorter but hosts some popular climbs like Woody in the Woods and Scared Stiff.
Classic Climbing Routes at Red Light District
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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