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GPS: |
44.14391, -107.23197 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 12,724 total · 64/month |
Shared By: | kyber on Aug 15, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
a new area with several climbs already (everything from 5.8 - 13+ with projects as well) thanks to alli rainey and matt wendling. most climbs here are 12s and up although there are a enough 10s and 11s to have fun if this is your range.
Getting There
Head up the canyon past Meadowlark lake. Shortly after passing the Meadowlark ski lodge, turn right on High Park Rd. Continue for a few minutes until passing a cattle guard, and turn right on Rd 433. Take this fairly washed out road passed the lookout tower and through some trees. Immediately after clearing the trees, there is a faint road on the left. This is where the approach starts (we parked at the end of this faint road and got a warning from the forest service, so probably best to park on Road 433, coordinates 44.155558, -107.211718). From here, hike down the faint road past a "no motor vehicles" sign. Follow cow trails through the natural drainage in a SW direction through the sage brush field. You'll pass a water tank and some old piles of logs. At the end of the field, there is a small aspen grove with a large cairn in it. You are now only about 5 mins from the Temple. Take a slight left (go south) at the large cairn towards a prominent drainage ditch. You'll cross over the drainage ditch and then pick up the trail and cairns again. Follow cairns and a feint climbers trail until you reach the rim of the canyon and a rather precarious scree field. The Temple is down the scree field to skier's right.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Temple
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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