Stone Door @ Savage Gulf State Park. Climbing
Routes in Stone Door @ Savage Gulf State Park.
|Campsite Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Cornflake Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Directissma T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Monster Movie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Nose, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Rude Awakenings T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Vanderbuilt Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Whiskey Religion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|GPS:||35.433, -85.663 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||11,219 total, 93/month|
|Shared By:||Brad "Stonyman" Killough on Jan 21, 2008|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough|
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DescriptionAs with all areas in the south, the climbing is better on a seasonal time scale. Since sand rock sweats during humid times during the summer, it's probably best to climb during early spring and early into late fall! The rock there is sandstone and is quality climbing, but be careful, there is some loose rock. It's usually not too crowded at the trad routes, but there is a toprope wall at the base that Vanderbilt University uses for classes and it is sometimes a little crowded.
From the ranger's station, it's about a mile to the cliff line (great trail to the cliff) then it's down the staircase through the namesake "Stone Door," which is the access route to the bottom that the early Indians used. The tallest section there is about 154 ft. With a great view!! This area has 14 trad routes and a few toprope routes that go from easy to moderate trad routes from His Majesty 5.4 to Rude Awakenings 5.11 and the only top rope area is at the Vanderbilt Wall that goes from 5.5 to 5.8 at 65 ft. and is at the bottom of the staircase, the rest is trad only!
Getting ThereFrom Chattanooga, take Interstate 24 west to the South Pittsburg exit. Go left toward Kimball and Jasper to Hwy. 41 and follow 41 to Tracy City to Hwy. 56 to Altamont. Turn right on Hwy. 50 and follow signs to Beersheba Springs, then follow signs to Stone Door/Savage Gulf. At the parking lot, sign in, then follow trail to bluff's edge(Stone Door).
From Nashville, take Interstate 24 east toward Chattanooga and get off at Pelham/Hwy. 50 exit. Go left to Beersheba Springs and follow Stone Door/Savage Gulf signs to Stone Door parking lot.
From Dunlap, take Tn. 8/111 and take a left at Tn. 339 and from there you will see the entrance not too far from there. The other way is from McMinnville on Tn. 56 to Beersheba Springs, then turn left on a side road with the state park sign and follow to a fork in the road and then bear right to the entrance of the park. Make sure you go to the Stone Door area for climbing!!
Classic Climbing Routes at Stone Door @ Savage Gulf State Park.
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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