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Routes in Stone Door @ Savage Gulf State Park.

Campsite Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Cornflake Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Directissma T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Monster Movie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Rude Awakenings T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vanderbuilt Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Religion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: One of the Illgner brothers?
Page Views: 1,628 total, 14/month
Shared By: Justin Dansby on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

Fun little climb. Starts out down low working the crack for pro and holds. Rock is super solid down low. Move up and use face holds to gain a ledge. Walk on the ledge over to the crack on the right and begin climbing again. Crux for me was a few moves into this part of the crack. After finishing the crack climb moving out right skirting under a roof. Move up onto the massive ledge. I followed the DCA and choose to setup a belay station over on a nearby ledge "on the tree" which was a bad idea. Belaying straight over the climb using minimal gear and slinging natural pro is a much better choice.

Location

Walk down through the stone door. Turn left follow the wall past a few routes and you will see Rude Awakenings, Monster Movie, Black Widow, and Cornflake Crack. Before you reach Campsite Dihedral.

Protection

Small to medium gear. Good stances most of the way. Wild Country blue Zero is helpful when trending right to left. Metolious yellow TCU's are helpful.

Photos

Bradley Mark Edwards
Grand Junction, CO
Bradley Mark Edwards   Grand Junction, CO  
This was a great climb to introduce folks to roped climbing. Jul 8, 2012
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
Very nice pro. Great the whole way. When I topped out I went right around the little boulder. Nov 6, 2008