|GPS:||41.221, -81.7 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||145,675 total · 915/month|
|Shared By:||John Aron on Jul 11, 2007|
It is all Sharon Conglomerate Sandstone. Don't pull hard on problems / routes during or immediately following rainy spells and try to climb two days after a rain to permit the stone to dry out.
Plenty of top rope routes, only a handful of gear routes, bouldering + every lame contrived variation thought up.
Many of the top rope routes require long webbing or static lines to set up. Please be gentle with the remaining trees when setting up. If you don't have experience using long static rope or webbing, check this website and ask others how to be safer.
The sense of adventure present in the serenity in the environment, seek adventure. The climbs here are ~30 feet high, there is a old soul to this area, we seek to embody Leave No Trace ethics here.
Whipps is a traditional low chalk and top rope area. Areas under overhangs that are sheltered from rain need extra care when it comes to chalk usage. Use the minimum needed and please take a little time to clean up before you leave. Tick marks should be removed wherever they are used, before you move on to the next area. There are climbers who still want to figure the route out on their own, without tick marks to map the way for them. Please be considerate and remove tick marks. A chalk ball inside your chalk bag with no loose chalk is highly recommended others still climb with no chalk.
Regarding the glue-in anchors: Whipps is a top rope area. Years before the OCC was created, the Metroparks chopped bolts here. One reason was the character of the soft Sharon Conglomerate Sandstone especially when wet and the other was a 'policy issue.' Glue-in bolts and anchors excel in softer rock found in places like the Red River Gorge, allowing more secure placements than expansion bolts.
Whipps is Sharon Conglomerate stone and is similar rock to the Red, which is Corbin sandstone. For beginners, Corbin stone has a significantly dense shell and is known to be "butter like" under the shell. Sharon conglomerate doesn't have this granularity but is equally fragile on the external covering.
Upper Parking Area: Go south on State Road to Bellus Road. Turn left on Bellus Road. Take the next right on Top of Ledges Drive. Follow this to the parking area.
Lower Parking Area: Go south on State Road past Bellus Road. The parking lot entrance will be on the left before the bridge.
Classic Climbing Routes at Whipps Ledges
Days w Precip