Elevation: 1,226 ft
GPS: 41.221, -81.7 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 145,675 total · 915/month
Shared By: John Aron on Jul 11, 2007
Admins: Courtney Curtner

Description

Some sun, some shady, some wind, always a good time. Crowds on the weekends.. Kids smokin' after (or during ) skool (weekdays.) Couples walking all the time. The seclusion you desire is proportionate to where you're climbing. Ymmv.

It is all Sharon Conglomerate Sandstone. Don't pull hard on problems / routes during or immediately following rainy spells and try to climb two days after a rain to permit the stone to dry out.

Plenty of top rope routes, only a handful of gear routes, bouldering + every lame contrived variation thought up.

Many of the top rope routes require long webbing or static lines to set up. Please be gentle with the remaining trees when setting up. If you don't have experience using long static rope or webbing, check this website and ask others how to be safer.

The sense of adventure present in the serenity in the environment, seek adventure. The climbs here are ~30 feet high, there is a old soul to this area, we seek to embody Leave No Trace ethics here.

Whipps is a traditional low chalk and top rope area. Areas under overhangs that are sheltered from rain need extra care when it comes to chalk usage. Use the minimum needed and please take a little time to clean up before you leave. Tick marks should be removed wherever they are used, before you move on to the next area. There are climbers who still want to figure the route out on their own, without tick marks to map the way for them. Please be considerate and remove tick marks. A chalk ball inside your chalk bag with no loose chalk is highly recommended others still climb with no chalk.

Regarding the glue-in anchors: Whipps is a top rope area. Years before the OCC was created, the Metroparks chopped bolts here. One reason was the character of the soft Sharon Conglomerate Sandstone especially when wet and the other was a 'policy issue.' Glue-in bolts and anchors excel in softer rock found in places like the Red River Gorge, allowing more secure placements than expansion bolts.

Whipps is Sharon Conglomerate stone and is similar rock to the Red, which is Corbin sandstone. For beginners, Corbin stone has a significantly dense shell and is known to be "butter like" under the shell. Sharon conglomerate doesn't have this granularity but is equally fragile on the external covering.

Getting There

Locate the intersection of State Route 303 and State Road near Hinckley, Ohio. Go south on State Road. There are two parking areas with restrooms(no running water); either parking area will get you to Whipps Ledges.

Upper Parking Area: Go south on State Road to Bellus Road. Turn left on Bellus Road. Take the next right on Top of Ledges Drive. Follow this to the parking area.

Lower Parking Area: Go south on State Road past Bellus Road. The parking lot entrance will be on the left before the bridge.

145 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Whipps Ledges Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Whipps Ledges

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3-4 6A+
 4
The Orgator
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
Journey to the Sun
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 23
Keyhole Crack
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V-easy 3
 6
Sunshine
TR, Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Double O
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Christ Died Crack
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 34
The Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Burnout
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
The Arete
TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Dunes
TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Snoopy
TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
O Wall
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Buzzard
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Snoopy Center
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Buzzard Direct
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Orgator Island
 4
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Journey to the Sun Moonlight Buttress
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Keyhole Crack Main Wall
 23
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Sunshine Christ Died
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V-easy 3 TR, Boulder
Double O Island
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Christ Died Crack Christ Died
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Crack Main Wall
 34
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Burnout Main Wall
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
The Arete Island
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Dunes Island
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
Snoopy Main Wall
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
O Wall Christ Died
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Buzzard Main Wall
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Snoopy Center Main Wall
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Buzzard Direct Main Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Whipps Ledges »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos