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Elevation: 1,226 ft 374 m
GPS: 41.22129, -81.69955
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 246,394 total · 1,161/month
Shared By: John Aron on Jul 11, 2007
Admins: Courtney Curtner

Description Suggest change

Some sun, some shady, some wind, always a good time. Crowds on the weekends.. Kids smokin' after (or during ) skool (weekdays.) Couples walking all the time. The seclusion you desire is proportionate to where you're climbing. Ymmv.

It is all Sharon Conglomerate Sandstone. Don't pull hard on problems / routes during or immediately following rainy spells and try to climb two days after a rain to permit the stone to dry out.

Plenty of top rope routes, only a handful of gear routes, bouldering + every lame contrived variation thought up.

Many of the top rope routes require long webbing or static lines to set up. Please be gentle with the remaining trees when setting up. If you don't have experience using long static rope or webbing, check this website and ask others how to be safer.

The sense of adventure present in the serenity in the environment, seek adventure. The climbs here are ~30 feet high, there is a old soul to this area, we seek to embody Leave No Trace ethics here.

Whipps is a traditional low chalk and top rope area. Areas under overhangs that are sheltered from rain need extra care when it comes to chalk usage. Use the minimum needed and please take a little time to clean up before you leave. Tick marks should be removed wherever they are used, before you move on to the next area. There are climbers who still want to figure the route out on their own, without tick marks to map the way for them. Please be considerate and remove tick marks. A chalk ball inside your chalk bag with no loose chalk is highly recommended others still climb with no chalk.

Regarding the glue-in anchors: Whipps is a top rope area. Years before the OCC was created, your fellow climbers chopped bolts here. One reason was the character of the soft Sharon Conglomerate Sandstone especially when wet and the other was a ethics or 'policy issue.'

Whipps is Sharon Conglomerate stone and is similar rock to the Red, which is Corbin sandstone. For beginners, Corbin stone has a significantly dense shell and is known to be "butter like" under the shell. Sharon conglomerate doesn't have this granularity but is equally fragile on the external covering.

Getting There Suggest change

Locate the intersection of State Route 303 and State Road near Hinckley, Ohio. Go south on State Road. There are two parking areas with restrooms(no running water, however both top and bottom had well water which was high in iron. You could thank the CMP for removing the wells and saving you from issues later in life.); either parking area will get you to where you want to go.

Upper Parking Area: Go south on State Road to Bellus Road. Turn left on Bellus Road. Take the next right on Top of Ledges Drive. Follow this to the parking area.

Lower Parking Area: Go south on State Road past Bellus Road. The parking lot entrance will be on the left before the bridge.

162 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Whipps Ledges Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Whipps Ledges

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 5
The Orgator
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 44
Keyhole Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Shooting Star
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Patagonia
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Double O
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Christ Died Crack
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 51
The Crack
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Double Layback Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Burnout
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
The Arete
TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Dunes
TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 8
Snoopy
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 20
Buzzard
TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
O Wall
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Buzzard Direct
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Orgator Island
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Keyhole Crack Main Wall
 44
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Shooting Star Christ Died
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Patagonia Main Wall
 29
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Double O Island
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Christ Died Crack Christ Died
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Crack Main Wall
 51
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Double Layback Crack Main Wall
 32
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Burnout Main Wall
 25
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
The Arete Island
 26
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Dunes Island
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
Snoopy Main Wall
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c TR
Buzzard Main Wall
 20
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
O Wall Christ Died
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
Buzzard Direct Main Wall
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Whipps Ledges »

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