Elevation: 1,226 ft
GPS: 41.221, -81.7 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 66,467 total · 474/month
Shared By: John- on Jul 11, 2007
Admins: Courtney Curtner
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Description

Some sun, some shady, some wind, always a good time. Crowds on the weekends.. Kids smokin' after skool weekdays. Couples walking all the time. The seclusion you desire is proportionate to where you're climbing. Ymmv.

It is all Sharon Conglomerate Sandstone. Don't pull hard on problems / routes during or immediately following rainy spells.

Plenty of Top Rope routes, only a handful of Gear routes, Bouldering + every lame contrived variation thought up.

Many of the Top Rope routes require long webbing or static lines to set up. Please be gentle with the remaining trees when setting up. .

Getting There

Locate the intersection of State Route 303 and State Road near Hinckley, Ohio. Go south on State Road. There are two parking areas with restrooms(no running water); either parking area will get you to Whipps Ledges.

Upper Parking Area: Go south on State Road to Bellus Road. Turn left on Bellus Road. Take the next right on Top of Ledges Drive. Follow this to the parking area.

Lower Parking Area: Go south on State Road past Bellus Road. The parking lot entrance will be on the left before the bridge.

114 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Whipps Ledges

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 7
Sandbox Arete
Boulder
V3+ 6A+ PG13
 3
Journey to the Sun
TR, Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 4
The Orgator
Boulder
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Double O
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
The Crack
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Christ Died Crack
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Patagonia
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Burnout
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
The Arete
TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Dunes
TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Snoopy
TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3+ 6A+ PG13
 3
The Cave
TR, Boulder
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
O Wall
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Buzzard
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Chinese Eyes
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sandbox Arete Island
 7
V0 4 Boulder
Journey to the Sun Moonlight Buttress
 3
V3+ 6A+ PG13 TR, Boulder
The Orgator Island
 4
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Double O Island
 10
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
The Crack Main Wall
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Christ Died Crack Christ Died
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Patagonia Main Wall
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Burnout Main Wall
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
The Arete Island
 12
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Dunes Island
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
Snoopy Main Wall
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
The Cave Main Wall
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3+ 6A+ PG13 TR, Boulder
O Wall Christ Died
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Buzzard Main Wall
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Chinese Eyes Island
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
More Classic Climbs in Whipps Ledges »

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Photos

In order to obtain a permit to climb contact Cleveland Metroparks Visitor Services at 216-635-3200, Ext. 264 Aug 20, 2012
brysonh
SLC, UT
brysonh   SLC, UT
I just tried calling the number above. I guess permits are handled differently now:

clevelandmetroparks.com/Mai…

I called and they provided 216-635-3304 as phone number. May 24, 2016
Does anyone no what the name is of the sport route hear and if there have been more introduced over the years? May 16, 2017
John-  
PM me, there's names everywhere. Jun 27, 2017
John Sprouse
Akron, OH
John Sprouse   Akron, OH
2018
Below is a link to the most current page with info / application for a climbing permit:

clevelandmetroparks.com/abo…

You can also contact Leah M. Androne at: lma@clevelandmetroparks.com Jun 21, 2018
John-  
There is camping in a nearby park though there isn't many spots available. There is zero legit camping in most Metroparks. I tried to eliminate that years ago with discussions to a few parks though none were successful.

nps.gov/cuva/planyourvisit/… Aug 7, 2018
Does anyone know why there has not been any sport lines put up here? Or at least some more anchors? Some of the routes have newer glue in bolts for anchors and Im wondering why there hasnt been any more installed.
Thanks! Oct 18, 2018
John-  
PM me your email and I'll answer what I can off site via email thread. Anyone else who is curious of this, follow the sentence above and perhaps we can get energy again. Oct 18, 2018
Courtney Curtner
Dayton, OH
Courtney Curtner   Dayton, OH  
CLEVELAND METROPARKS ELIMINATES INDIVIDUAL ROCK CLIMBING PERMIT

On October 18, 2018, the Cleveland Metroparks​ Board voted to eliminate the individual rock climbing permit at Hinkley Reservation, Whipp's Ledges. Individual permits are no longer needed after November 17, 2018.

The Ohio Climbers Coalition talked with some of the Cleveland Metroparks Staff during the Whipp's Adopt-a-Crag Event in August 2017 concerning the possibility to remove the rock climbing permit at Whipp's Ledges. The OCC would like to thank Dan, Ashley and Zach, staff members and climbers from the Cleveland Metroparks for their tireless efforts in supporting climbing at Cleveland Metroparks.

Please keep in mind that groups still need to obtain a permit through the Cleveland Metroparks permitting process. The permit information will be updated on the Cleveland Metroparks website and the old signage will be removed soon. It is also important to remember that Whipp's is the only area in Cleveland Metroparks open to climbing at this time.

Cleveland Metroparks will update its website to reflect these new changes and any future issues concerning rock climbing at Whipp's Ledges. It will also be adding a Non-Cleveland Metroparks Program Permit application for anyone offering instructional classes throughout the park. This would include climbing instruction.

The Northeast climbing community is very lucky to have a jewel like Whipp's Ledges so close to home.

For more information about Whipp's visit the Cleveland Metroparks website at:
clevelandmetroparks.com/…/…/hinckley-reservation

For more information about the Ohio Climbers Coalition visit our website at:
ohioclimberscoalition.org Dec 9, 2018
Jonathan Greever
Fenton, MO
Jonathan Greever   Fenton, MO
Thanks to Courtney and everyone else who has helped develop this gem. It is a treasure for the NE Ohio Climbing Community. As a STL climber but a frequent traveler to CLE for years (long distance relationship), I have started visiting the Whipps Ledges system. What a treasure! Hope to see some of the local climbing group members there later this year. Jan 4, 2019