Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 1. Bat Cave

Axis of Evil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crystal Therapy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Night S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fang Shui S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
H3 S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Holeistic Healing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horrorscope S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Letting Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Molten Magma S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Palm Reader S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Path to Enlightenment S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rifle-esque (Chaturanga) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Subaru Nation S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tacoma Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shared By: Jfoley on Dec 15, 2006
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This is the obvious spill-off area which has formed a large amphitheater. Overhanging sport climbs on positive holds is the standard here. At first glance, I thought it was loose choss, but it is surprisingly good basalt. This is a very beautiful spot, please respect it and tread lightly. STICK CLIP IS A MUST! All routes require a pre-cliped first bolt and Consider a Helmet.

Routes: Right to Left
  • (10) Guillotine (chopped)

Getting There

See Vista Verde or Taos Rock: Climbs and Boulders of Northern New Mexico by Jay Foley. Publisher: Sharp End Publishing, 2005

14 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: 1. Bat Cave Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at 1. Bat Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in 1. Bat Cave »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jfoley  
Heath, the two new routes are Dark Night and H3. I just posted them to the Bat Cave section. Dec 23, 2013
glad you like it, feel free to fix or change anything there, people do. (99% for the better) It would be great if some of the sharp jug holds were comfortized, we were starting to but got accused of chiseling before we even started. Why would we chisel massive jugs? Thanks for the appreciation of a pretty unique place. ( I really need to edit a lot better the first time.) Aug 23, 2013
djkyote  
^ FAs of both routes: JFoley. I think both were decided to be about 12c/d with very beta intensive cruxes. Glad you like the upgrades of chain and further cleaning we did last spring. Aug 20, 2013
I've come to really enjoy this area for its steep gymnastic movement. And it has cleaned up nicely. Does anyone have route info. for the bouldery steep routes through the drippy calcite stripes on the left side of the cave? The two routes lie between Rifle-esque (Chaturanga) and Fang Shui. The left has two chains through the steeps and the right, one. I can't speak for the left route as I haven't been on it at this point but the right route seems in the 12+/13a range. Both appear to be great additions to this stellar crag. Aug 20, 2013
it is very easy to get off route in the b.c. not much chalk yet, lots of holds, and only a few ascents so different sizes and styles will use untested holds. They will probably get downgraded as they clean up, some feel lots easier already. Just pretend you are alpine climbing and enjoy the adventure. Jun 12, 2009
Bill Ballace
Pullman,WA
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
I pulled one hold and literally felt another crumble in my hand, so it is highly advisable to wear a helmet and have your belayer in location free from possible debris. I realize that this is a newish area and New Mexico does not see a lot of traffic but between here and Utopian Vista I pulled three holds (btw I weigh 150lbs so it isn't like I'm some monster of a human). If these two areas see some traffic and clean up some they will be great. I really like the movement that this rock yields.

All you Greenies should Head on down South to New Mexico for some clipie, clipie, and of course Green Chile at Orlando's. Nov 5, 2007
stick clip recommended for this area, even essential! large sharp holds on choss but very fun climbing. most put up on lead so please excuse bolt placements. lots of work to clean and bolt these climbs. wear a helmet. grades very subjective due to limited ascents, please feel free to comment Aug 22, 2007

More About 1. Bat Cave

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within 1. Bat Cave (19)

Most Popular · Newest