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Areas in Hercules Finger

North Side 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
South Side 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 3,600 ft
GPS: 34.584, -116.813 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 9,175 total, 68/month
Shared By: C Miller on Nov 4, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

North of Lucerne Valley, and somewhat hidden in the middle of nowhere, is this uniquely shaped 70' free-standing formation with half a dozen routes ranging from 5.7-5.12 on quality high desert granite. More rock exists nearby but most of it's of dubious quality.

There is a fair bit of driving on dirt roads to get there but even so a 2wd vehicle (with clearance) should have no trouble making the drive as long as you're careful.

Getting There

East of the town of Lucerne Valley turn north onto Camp Rock Rd. and follow it for 6.2 miles where it will turn to dirt (the formation will now be visible off to your left on a distant hillside). Continue on Camp Rock Rd. for another 3.7 miles and make a left onto marked road OM30 near some off-road kiosks (the formation is now hidden behind some low hills).

Follow OM30 for 2.0 miles to an intersection at some power lines with marked road OM10. Drive road OM10, following the power lines, as it goes up a hill and along a ridge where the formation will come back into view. After 2.2 miles make a right onto a dirt road past an obvious balanced boulder (rocky and off-camber road not suitable for long vehicles) or continue for another 0.2 miles to another road near a power line tower (bumpy but a much better road). It's another 0.5 miles slightly uphill to a parking area just below the base of the formation.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hercules Finger

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Limp Side
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pecker Wrecker Arete
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Main Vein
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Limp Side N Side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Pecker Wrecker Arete N Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Main Vein S Side 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
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NeilB
Tehachapi, CA
NeilB   Tehachapi, CA
As of 2/2/14 the bolts at the top are old spinners with huge rings. Not a trustworthy rap anchor in my opinion. So, just be aware of the runout if you want to top out. Apr 12, 2014
Looks like the lat/long has been fixed.

The directions given are a bit complex. I just took Camp Rock Road north and turned right on the powerline road. Followed the powerline until I could see Hercules Finger on the left and parked as close as I could get. The sand is deep in places so be careful with your vehicle selection. I took 2wd Ford Escape with bald tires and made it pretty close.

This google maps route is how I did it:
goo.gl/maps/0UcCl Sep 13, 2012
The lat/long above aren't accurate; no big deal because we had a great time off-roading for a few hours searching for the Finger.

Lat: 34.584240
Lon: 116.812530 Jul 8, 2011

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