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Elevation: 6,491 ft
GPS: 44.10072, -107.28884
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 33,813 total · 158/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 7, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Because of its North facing orientation, The Circus Wall is one of the few that sees shade all morning in the heat of the Summer. The sun finally hits it around 2 O'clock and is gone again around 4. There are two main sections, one hosting long routes and the other short and bulgy. You'll find routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.12+.

Must do routes include Circus In The Wind .11-, Circus In My Pants .12+, I Love The Big Top .9 on the taller wall and Sucker Born Every Minute .11d, The Barnum Route .12a and Yankee Doodle Dandy In A Gold Rolls Royce .11b on the shorter bulging wall. For you bouldering sorts, Les Rocks! is a bolted V5 - with a sweet dyno!

Getting There Suggest change

The mileage listed is zeroed where the old road and new road split (Hwy 16 and 435). Please park nose or rear in when parking, especially in small lots.

Mileage: 2.9 miles
Crags accessed: Wall of Denial/Iceplant/Circus/Question Wall
Parking lot side of road: Right, large lot
Approach trail: Walk 100 feet downhill along guardrail to trail going uphill.
Approach time: 10-30 minutes more

Located mid canyon. Best access from the 6th pullout (on the right). Walk downhill from the pullout and find the obvious trail. Great trail, with steps leads up to the Wall of Denial - check out the arctic chimney issuing freezing air!! Continue past the wall heading into the corridor, passing Raven Wall on the left and Ice Plant routes on the right. Meander through the rocks and up the small dirt slope into the old river bed. The first set of Circus routes are on the bulge to your right, a taller wall exists just beyond that.

14 Total Climbs

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Location: Circus Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Circus Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 238
I Love the Big Top
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 266
Step Right This Way
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
Shadows of Crowes
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 35
Lil Smokie Goes to the Circus
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 38
You Gotta Play to Win
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 427
Circus in the Wind
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Yankee Doodle Dandy In A Gold Ro…
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
Clowns Eat Kids
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 59
Sucker Born Every Minute
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 115
The Barnum Route
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
Les Rocks!
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 64
Circus In My Pants
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
I Love the Big Top
 238
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Step Right This Way
 266
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Shadows of Crowes
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lil Smokie Goes to the Circus
 35
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
You Gotta Play to Win
 38
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Circus in the Wind
 427
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Yankee Doodle Dandy In A Go…
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Clowns Eat Kids
 18
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sucker Born Every Minute
 59
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
The Barnum Route
 115
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Les Rocks!
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Circus In My Pants
 64
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Circus Wall »

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