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Lost Rocks Bouldering

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GPS:	41.51957, -124.08149 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Peter Franzen on Aug 3, 2006 · Updates
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Access Issue: Private Property - DO NOT TRESPASS ON TRIBAL LANDS Details

Legal access to Lost Rocks is either from the Flint Ridge campground parking (northern end) or the High Bluffs trailhead (southern end). Just north of where the trail from the Flint Ridge parking emerges on to the beach, there is a huge, freestanding boulder known as the Flake Boulder. This boulder marks the northern boundary of public lands, and past this boulder are Yurok tribal lands.

DO NOT CLIMB OR TRAVEL past/north of the Flake Boulder, it is trespassing. Further, DO NOT ACCESS Lost Rock from the gated road downhill/north of the Flint Ridge parking, it is also trespassing. Both of these actions (parking at the lower gate or climbing/walking north of the Flake Boulder) have caused access issues in the past with the Yurok Tribe.

Finally, DO NOT CAMP at the Flint Ridge trailhead parking lot (yes, that includes vans), in pullouts near the river mouth, or anywhere else along the loop road. Overnight camping is not allowed in any of these areas and camping here will only exacerbate other access issues.

Description

Lost Rocks is one of the most unique climbing areas in the country. On a coastline hundreds of miles long that is covered with chossy boulders, this string of beaches somehow has solid spectacular rock. The setting here is tranquil and peaceful despite the pounding surf, none of the boulder problems have been given grades and very few are named, and the shifting sands can change the landscape overnight. The metamorphic boulders vary from blocky overhangs to crimpy faces and smooth slabs. All of the climbing is on the beach so crashpads are rarely (if ever) needed.

Getting There

Take the Klamath Beach exit just south of the town of Klamath. Take the left onto the Coastal Drive loop, at a sign for Alder Camp. Then turn right at the top of the hill following signs for Flint Ridge camp. Park at a pullout accross from the Flint Ridge Camp trail and find a faint trail heading downhill.

Don't go straight on the Coastal Drive loop; if you do, you'll pass a beach access gate and a large campground (DO NOT PARK HERE OR USE FOR ACCESS - YOU ARE TRESPASSING) and then you'll see a Do Not Enter sign preventing you from getting up to the Flint Ridge Camp parking.

Camping

Camping can be found at the Flint Ridge walk-in sites, or at one of several campgrounds in the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, and Jedediah Smith State Park.

Do not camp in the Flint Ridge parking lot, in the pullouts down near the river mouth, or elsewhere along the loop road, it is not legal.

The Bouldering

The first group of boulders at the far northern end of Lost Rocks (near the lagoon and the Yurok campground) and the first problems on the next set to the south are off-limits to rock climbers. These boulders are on Yurok tribal lands, which are private property, and climbing/walking in this area is trespassing. The "Flake" Boulder marks the northern end of public property.

From the northern area moving south, there are two more beaches. Be aware that the ease of moving between beaches can be tide-dependent and may involve some scrambling at high tide. The best bouldering at Lost Rocks is at the final beach although there are plenty of classics in the other areas as well.

One thing that really makes this place unique is the sand. It provides the world's best landings to the problems, but it also changes the very problems themselves. Due to the powerful tides at this beach the sand levels can change up to 5ft. over just a couple of days. Highballs turn into normal problems, and starting holds can disappear completely.