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Routes in Bug Spring Wall

Aging Isn't For Wimp's S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Lightning S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Rattler T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C. Bailey S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Droppin' In S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dry Toolin' the Garden S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakey Bats S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holly The Hot Doc S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's About the Six S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jamin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lemmon Sanction, The S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lost Again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piston Bully T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reachin For The Sky T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rockin America T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Savin my Sanity T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Small Town Boy T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elevation: 5,600 ft
GPS: 32.347, -110.703 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 7,854 total, 55/month
Shared By: Andy Peters on Feb 19, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Bug Spring has two walls, east and a west wall. The west wall has nine climbs, the east wall has six. Grades range 5.7 to 5.10. This area faces northwest and doesn't get sun till noon. A good place to climb in the spring, fall and winter when we have moderate temps and not too much wind. The rock is granite that is mostly solid with some small loose stuff here and there. Horizontal cracks offer lots of handholds and gear placements.

Getting There

Park in the small parking spaces at the entrance of Prison Camp. Walk across the street through the gated dirt area that is used for road crew machinery parking. At the far east end drop into the wash. Follow this wash till it forks. Stay in the right drainage following cairns along the way going up two steep "dry waterfalls" with a lot of boulder hopping. Continue till you see the tallest most dominate 100 ft. tall cliff band on the right. Approach time 35 minutes.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bug Spring Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's About the Six
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Lightning
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
It's About the Six 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black Lightning 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
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Photos

NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
The hike out, timed, no stops, via drainage, at night with headlamps, hard march, was 58 minuets. I estimate that hike in (first time) via drainage took 1:10:00 with no stops. Beautiful secluded area. THANKS. Jan 21, 2014
mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
The directions for this approach and associated comments confused the hell out of us. All you really need to do is take the right fork in the drainage at the second set of metal pipes. Follow this drainage all the way to the crag. It will be obvious, up and to your right when the drainage levels out and becomes sandy.

Aside, the climbs here were average to good, IMO, with sun on the wall this time of year (march) beginning around 1:00 pm until sundown. If you're waiting till sundown to hike out, beware. It took us 1:20 to hike out in the darkness, albeit with an injured climber and a gimpy dog. Not bad, considering the approach took us 1:45 minutes because we followed the path to the left fork of the drainage and had to crest and descend the adjacent ridge line to get to the crag. Happy trails! Mar 13, 2013
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
The approach through the drainage is not that bad, slow going but it is only 1 mile long. The GPS coordinates helped because when you reach the "beach" (just a flat area after all the elevation gain) the West Wall has finally just come into view and you are just below it. Mar 19, 2011
WSnyder  
Following the approach path shown on the Beta photo topo map above will probably save you a lot of time. I used this route recently and was much happier than going the standard up and down the drainage approach. I timed my trip out of there and it was 25 minutes max from the drainage below the walls to the highway. It was a much easier and enjoyable hike as well. Follow the Bug Springs trial just past the water tank and double pipes, head up the ridge (following game trails) to the right towards the boulder pile at the little peak. Stay on the ridge up over the first peak, through the saddle and up the ridge until you are about even with the drainage below the crags. At this point contour to the right following the game trails until you hit the beach area in the drainage below the West Wall. Dec 5, 2010
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
10R between 11 & 12. Should be posted with description as someone told me it was easy and it had bolts. I said they were on the wrong route unless someone accidently bolted it. Jul 1, 2010
Did a 10R gear route between 11 and 12 I think with JSt and Eric Murdock. Good climbing but you didn't want to blow it. Jun 28, 2010
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Yeah there's a cliff off to the right about 30 minutes in that's easy to mistake for this area..I made that mistake, but even subtracting the time spent on the detour, it was still about 45 minutes to get to this area. Fun climbs though. All I noticed about the ratings was that "It's About the Six" felt sandbagged to me (I'm 5'8") Oct 24, 2007
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
Well, we finally made a trip up here last weekend. The area is a little farther up the drainage than the description suggests. The "tallest, most dominant [sic]" 100' wall is NOT where the climbs are, nor is it the best place to exit the drainage. Keep going past that until you come to a flat, essentially boulder-free (likely a consequence of silt infilling after the Aspen fire) area in the streambed past that. There is no mention of the 1-1/2" or 2" (approx) diameter metal pipes you walk under in the drainage shortly after taking the right-hand fork. There are two places you will encounter this. This confirms that you are indeed in the correct drainage. The GPS coordinates were very helpful.

The six routes we did (we started on the far end and worked our way back to climber's right) were all a least a number grade easier than the given ratings.That said, I thought it was a good area overall. It was nicely shaded until mid-afternoon. The rock is solid for the most part, and the routes were fun. Thanks to Andy for putting these up. Oct 4, 2007
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
GPS Coordinates for the area.

N 32' 20.819' W 110' 42.165' May 5, 2007
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
Anybody have GPS coordinates for these two walls? Mar 11, 2007

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