Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Nick Martel, Kristina Bergdahl-Martel '14
Page Views: 813 total · 10/month
Shared By: Eric Sophiea on May 3, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Fire Closure Details

Description

Fun challenging crimpy face climbing with plenty of rests. Two cruxes: first one pulling through the second bolt (balancy and technichal), the other from the 4th to 5th bolt. There's a runout between bolts 3 & 4 on very easy ground and you clip the 4th bolt from a huge ledge (so it's pretty tame and you could get gear if you wanted it). Above this ledge, there are two distinct lines to climb, both about at the same grade: go left of the bolts into a short crack (a hand jam is helpful) and then up to really nice holds and a good clipping stance, OR go right of the bolts on the face using crimps and a few jugs. Right is more sustained and the clipping stance isn't as comfy, but it's fun face climbing.

Edited: The FA party brought a big crowbar up and pulled on the partially detached block and couldn't move it. It's well attached on one half and solid, even though it sounds hollow. I'm not great at grading climbs, so this may be anywhere from 5.9 to 10b.

A good route that's got more challenging climbing than the other 5.9 climb I did in the area. Definitely worth getting on if you're there. Thanks for putting it up, Nick and Kristina!

Location

Currently the furthest left climb on the East Wall (about 15 feet left of Piston Bully). Climbs the dark grey stain & short crack. Six brown painted Fixe hangers.

Protection

6 Bolts to chain anchors.

Photos