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Routes in Bug Spring Wall

Aging Isn't For Wimp's S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Lightning S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Rattler T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C. Bailey S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Droppin' In S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dry Toolin' the Garden S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakey Bats S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holly The Hot Doc S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's About the Six S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jamin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lemmon Sanction, The S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lost Again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piston Bully T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reachin For The Sky T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rockin America T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Savin my Sanity T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Small Town Boy T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Nick Martel, Kristina Bergdahl-Martel '14
Page Views: 468 total, 11/month
Shared By: Eric Sophiea on May 3, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Fun challenging crimpy face climbing with plenty of rests. Two cruxes: first one pulling through the second bolt (balancy and technichal), the other from the 4th to 5th bolt. There's a runout between bolts 3 & 4 on very easy ground and you clip the 4th bolt from a huge ledge (so it's pretty tame and you could get gear if you wanted it). Above this ledge, there are two distinct lines to climb, both about at the same grade: go left of the bolts into a short crack (a hand jam is helpful) and then up to really nice holds and a good clipping stance, OR go right of the bolts on the face using crimps and a few jugs. Right is more sustained and the clipping stance isn't as comfy, but it's fun face climbing.

Edited: The FA party brought a big crowbar up and pulled on the partially detached block and couldn't move it. It's well attached on one half and solid, even though it sounds hollow. I'm not great at grading climbs, so this may be anywhere from 5.9 to 10b.

A good route that's got more challenging climbing than the other 5.9 climb I did in the area. Definitely worth getting on if you're there. Thanks for putting it up, Nick and Kristina!

Location

Currently the furthest left climb on the East Wall (about 15 feet left of Piston Bully). Climbs the dark grey stain & short crack. Six brown painted Fixe hangers.

Protection

6 Bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
So Yes there is a runout on 5.6-5.7 terrain but you could protect it if you feel the need, and as long as you don't jump off the ledge you will be OK.
Regarding the block... the wood handle of our hammer actually snapped trying to pry it off and I had to place the bolts holding the just head of the hammer in my hand. We tried yanking on it etc... and we could not remove it with what we had that first day, we have since returned with a crowbar and it is still not going anywhere. Kristina and I also painted the hangers primer brown.

Regarding the route (from memory) huge jug-rail to balance moves on small crimps sidepull seam through 2 bolts then it ledges off for 10-15' before heading up the overhanging headwall. You can climb left of the bolts in the black crack on a good jam and a harder jam or stay in line/right of the bolts for a hero jug romp, either way the headwall is the physical crux. It's a hard route to grade because it requires a certain minimum strength and technique but if you have them then it is easy. In our journal I wrote "5.9 but probably more like 9- with more refined beta", however Kristina wrote "Solid 9". Eventually IF people ever climb here a consensus will emerge. It is as hard as it is.

Enjoy and Be Safe May 4, 2014
Andrew Nelson
  5.10a
Andrew Nelson  
  5.10a
Fun route. Getting into the second bolt is balancy, and getting through the second crux is fun! May 3, 2014