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Black Lightning
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 10
votes
Routes in Bug Spring Wall
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Aging Isn't For Wimp's S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Lightning S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Rattler T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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C. Bailey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Droppin' In S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Dry Toolin' the Garden S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flakey Bats S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Holly The Hot Doc S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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It's About the Six S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jamin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lemmon Sanction, The S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lost Again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Piston Bully T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reachin For The Sky T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rockin America T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Savin my Sanity T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Small Sanity T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Small Town Boy T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 32.34696, -110.70274 |
| FA: | Nick Martel, Kristina Bergdahl-Martel '14 |
| Page Views: | 1,467 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Sophiea on May 3, 2014 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Fun challenging crimpy face climbing with plenty of rests. Two cruxes: first one pulling through the second bolt (balancy and technichal), the other from the 4th to 5th bolt. There's a runout between bolts 3 & 4 on very easy ground and you clip the 4th bolt from a huge ledge (so it's pretty tame and you could get gear if you wanted it). Above this ledge, there are two distinct lines to climb, both about at the same grade: go left of the bolts into a short crack (a hand jam is helpful) and then up to really nice holds and a good clipping stance, OR go right of the bolts on the face using crimps and a few jugs. Right is more sustained and the clipping stance isn't as comfy, but it's fun face climbing.
Edited: The FA party brought a big crowbar up and pulled on the partially detached block and couldn't move it. It's well attached on one half and solid, even though it sounds hollow. I'm not great at grading climbs, so this may be anywhere from 5.9 to 10b.
A good route that's got more challenging climbing than the other 5.9 climb I did in the area. Definitely worth getting on if you're there. Thanks for putting it up, Nick and Kristina!
3 Comments