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Routes in Nook's Rock

Description

Nook is a nice shady rock quiet and secluded, all things rare on Flagstaff. The rock is a dark grey with pebbles and incuts. A really fun traverse exists on the less then vertical wall. The side facing town has a flaky overhung low traverse. You can use a crashpad, but you don't really need one. There are some bolts on the top if for some reason you chose to TR it.

Per Colin Lantz & Rodger Raubach: this rock is named after Layton "Nook" Kor. "Nook" is a nickname for him.

Getting There

Park at the Capstan. Cross the road like your heading towards Cloud shadow. Walk uphill along the gaurd rail past the downhill for Cloud shadow about ten feet more and follow the very loose trail downhill to the rock. Watch out for some broken glass on the trail as it's loose.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nook's Rock

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Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
There are two bolts on top, both star drives, one with a modern Metolius hanger and the other with a homemade angle iron hanger. Neither is particularly good. Oct 19, 2015
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
vimeo.com/11004754 Apr 30, 2011
This is a great place to take a beginner for an intro to some bouldering and a great "date climb" spot, too. Apr 30, 2011
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
Kris, I'm guessing here, but I suspect you are talking about Butt Slammer, since it is the most obvious and inspiring (except for the rock quality) line on the boulder. Butt Slammer was put up by Rob Candelaria in 1974/75 and ascends the steep and airy southeast overhang above a small slab that faces downhill. At the time, it was rated B1+, which usually equates with V5 or 6 for most of Ament's ratings. Unfortunately, the rock is not the best and, shortly thereafter, a critical flake broke and several others have broken since. The glue has not helped to keep the flakes in place, which supports the position that if a hold breaks, no matter how critical ... such is life, leave the rock alone. Anyway, I digress ... Although Benningfield's CO Bouldering calls Butt Slammer V10, to my knowledge ... nobody's done it since it broke in the mid 1970s.

Other Nook's Rock Beta:

Colin Lantz established a line in 2004 that begins down and right from Butt Slammer at the bottom of the arete and rides the arete to Butt Slammer's topout. He called it Slut Bammer and he called it V6 or 7.

There is another hard problem established by Will LeMaire in 2005 called Window Shopper on the left side of the east overhang which more or less faces east or downhill towards the road and town. It begins on the far left on the lowest sidepulls and moves up and right past some painfully small and sharp grips to a topout on top of a short bulge. This is a hard problem that he originally thought was V12, but then backed off to say V10 or 11.

Finally, there is the traverse across the northeast face. For whatever reason, Benningfield's guide refered to this as the Westside Traverse V5, but it is quite a bit harder and not on the west side. Anyway, most people do Nook's Traverse as follows: Traverse L->R from obvious holds on the far left and up Wimpie's Revenge (the obvious shallow dihedral on the right). Consensus puts this at V8. A low sds further down and left moves into the line and ups the grade to V9 or so.

Everybody have fun.... Jun 27, 2007
Does anyone know what the hard, overhanging problem on the southeast corner is? It's a beautiful line requiring seriously strong fingers. Jun 25, 2007
Colin Lantz
Nederland, CO
Colin Lantz   Nederland, CO
Nook was supposedly a nickname for Layton Kor. This area goes into the shade in the late afternoon and can be cool and pleasant on those long, hot, Front Range, summer evenings when the Monkey is blazing in the sun. With the peripheral boulders (Jim Hall Boulder, That Flakes It, 30th Birthday Roof) found in this secluded "nook", you can make for a good session in the V3 to V5 zone. Chill out, enjoy yourself and imagine trying the Westside Traverse in Kronhoffers with Layton. Apr 4, 2004

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