GPS: 38.167, -105.193 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,393 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ben Bruestle on Dec 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details

Description

Climbing in the Gorge is currently illegal according to Canon City Municipal Code 9.44.080 and is allowed only by the express permission of the Royal Gorge Company.

More than just a tourist trap at the worlds highest suspension bridge, the Arkansas River Canyon hides Colorado's forgotten big walls. The 1960's thru the 1980's saw first ascents from Layton Kor, Pat Ament, Art and Earl (The Squirrel) Wiggins, Bob LaGrange, Bob Robertson, Fred Pfahler, Bob Williams, Brad and Scott Shilling, Warren Banks, Leonard Coyne, Richard Goldstone, Kevin Murray and Ed Russell. Some say it's like climbing in the Black Canyon, except these 900 foot metamorphic and granite trad lines are scarier.

Camping is available upstream on BLM land along the Arkansas River with the boaters. Access into the canyon is free, although a sticky issue. The railroad tracks and bridge are private land. The actual walls though are a Canon City city park. Don't touch the bridge. Nearby Canon City has plenty of good restaurants and places to buy beer.

Most of the classic routes are on the north side of the canyon just downstream of the Royal Gorge Bridge on the "Tombstone Wall". All are in the 5.10 range. They all top out at or near the bridge footings. The south wall also holds a couple routes that top out near the bridge footings.

Beware of abundant choss, cactus, trains, and tourist junk.

Adventure climbing at its finest.

Getting There

There are two approaches to The Royal Gorge. Both are off of US Hwy 50, about 8 miles west of Canon City. The first is a third class descent down a gully starting just outside the concession area. The second is a 2 mile walk down the train tracks after crossing the river from the Parkdale South Fishing Access, off Fremont County Road 3.

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