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Main Rock (aka Scary Boulder) Climbing
Routes in Main Rock (aka Scary Boulder)
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Direct Arete V7 7A+ |
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Direct Arete Sit V8 7B |
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Left Arete V2 5+ |
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Not So Scary Traverse V-easy 3 |
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Scary Arete V3 6A |
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Scary Overhang V5 6C |
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Scary Overhang low start V7-8 7B |
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Scott's Arete V5 6C |
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Scott's Arete Dyno V7 7A+ |
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Scott's Arete Sit V7 7A+ |
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Scott's Roof V7 7A+ |
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Scott's Traverse Sit V8 7B |
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Scott’s Traverse V7 7A+ |
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Wandering Arete V6 7A |
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Warmup V-easy 3 |
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| Elevation: | 1,346 ft | 410 m |
| GPS: |
37.88234, -122.24192 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 17,861 total · 73/month | |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Mar 12, 2005 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Yearly fire hazard closures
Details
Parking on Grizzly Peak Blvd is forbidden from April 15 to November 15 every year during fire season.
Description
This bouldering area was once home to at least one short aid climb up an overhung rock of 20 feet. However, in the past 10 years, people have freed routes directly up the face of the main rock from V3 up to Vveryhard. Most routes fall into the category of V5 to about V9, with flat (mostly) dirt landings.
Pads are nice, as the upper reaches of most climbs don't let up and require spooky top outs to less steep terrain 12 or so feet off the ground.
You'll find the rock in the sun on sunny days, as the rock faces southwest. However, due to the location atop the Berkeley Hills, many times this entire area will be in fog.
No access issue.
Walk off the back to the easier (5.6ish) 10' downclimb.
Pads are nice, as the upper reaches of most climbs don't let up and require spooky top outs to less steep terrain 12 or so feet off the ground.
You'll find the rock in the sun on sunny days, as the rock faces southwest. However, due to the location atop the Berkeley Hills, many times this entire area will be in fog.
No access issue.
Walk off the back to the easier (5.6ish) 10' downclimb.
Getting There
Approach time: Nov 16th - April 14th: 0 minutesApril 15th - Nov 15th: 5 minutes, since you'll have to walk down grizzly peak about .2 miles from the next parking pullout.
From the main parking pullout or entrance path from Grizzly Peak Ave, walk uphill on the left path. If you can't see the rock from the street, you shouldn't be climbing it.
From the main parking pullout or entrance path from Grizzly Peak Ave, walk uphill on the left path. If you can't see the rock from the street, you shouldn't be climbing it.
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Rock (aka Scary Boulder)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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Guidebooks (9)
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