Twin Coves Climbing

Located just North of Jenner, this peninsula area is a gorgeous place to spend a day. This peninsula is also known as The Fortress of Solitude. The climbing in the area is mostly bouldering, though there are also some sport climbs and top rope options. Currently about 15 rocks have been climbed or bouldered. Some rocks could be developed with more bolted routes, and there is evidence that the largest rock once was toproped, but the bolts on top of it are rusty and spinning.

The rock of Twin Coves is primarily schist, though some of the bouldering rocks and caves to the north are hardened sandstone. Few of the routes contain solid rock, however, most of the rock is loose and brittle.

For many years the larger rocks of the area were soled, and only recently has development of the area made climbing the larger rocks safer with the addition of modern bolts. Bouldering in the area offers some interesting eliminates along the beach with soft sand landings, and some highball and traverse problems with mostly bad landings up on the bulge with the sport rock on it.

Walk offs are the best bet on most routes and rocks, though a rappell or lower is needed for the bolted rock.

As with most bay area areas, the place is infested with poison oak. So, beware of it on rocks, paths and any place else you might find yourself.

Some of the bouldering is tide dependant, and climbing the seaside routes in the middle of a large swell is not a good idea.

Camping is not allowed in the area, and you will probably get a ticket for attempting to do so.

Fisherman are prevalent in the area, as are seals, so be respectful and keep a low profile.