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Areas in Gibraltar Rock

1 - Brokedown Palace 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
2 - North Wall 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
3 - Amphitheater 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
4 - Party Hole, Rhombus Head, East Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 1,193 ft
GPS: 43.343, -89.6 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,297 total, 38/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Jun 8, 2004
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

Description

This area is currently closed to climbing...

Wiegand's guide

Landmann's guide - the current beta
Closed. Details

1 Total Climbs

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Location: Gibraltar Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Gibraltar Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locomotive
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Locomotive 2 - N Wall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
Right on Neal. Currently the WCA (Wisconsin Climbers Association) started this process this past spring at Ableman's Gorge, a current SNA property. The property was selected as a "bulk" master plan rewrite of aprox. 10 small SNA properties in southern WI. The DNR received a large amount of public input from climbers to officially recognize and allow rock climbing on the property. The DNR took notice, decided not to fast track this property and began a process to study the gorge in further detail. I was told last spring from people in the WCA involved in the process that an announcement could come as early as this fall, but I am not up to date with the latest info. Sep 17, 2017
I discussed this site with an administrator of the SNA program, and no changes to access can be made until the "master plan" of the site is up for review, which is not for several years. There are a number of other SNAs with moderate to good climbing potential, I think our best bet is to try and gain access to some smaller areas as their plans get revised and take EXCELLENT care of them. If we establish a good reputation, the DNR may be more amenable to granting access here.

The key arguments against us climbing at Gibraltar from the DNR's point of view is jeopardizing the plant and fungus populations on the rock. Please think twice before gardening in other DNR sites so we don't raise any alarms. Sep 15, 2017
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
No change in legal status. Mar 7, 2016
I was running the new trails at Gibralter today and there is no signage anywhere saying the area is closed to climbing. The new Ice Age trailhead has information on the trail but nowhere doe sit mention closed to climbing. Has the status changed? Mar 7, 2016
CharlesErickson
Evergreen, CO
CharlesErickson   Evergreen, CO
I saw Gibralter's face a few years ago and believe this crag should be returned to its climbable state where it should remain.

Please add me to the petition.

Charles Erickson

Thanks Sep 28, 2012
Juggler  
Anyone know the status of the petition? I really liked this crag too Oct 13, 2011
Paul Jones
Madison, WI
Paul Jones   Madison, WI
Add me to the list. I remember hearing that this closure was due to lack of emergency resources for the county. It was a county decision. I have many great memories of the place as well - some really good routes there. Jun 23, 2009
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
Add me to the list... Mar 24, 2009
Alex A  
Add my name to the list, remember doing nice climbs there back in the 80's.

Alex Andrews Nov 19, 2008
Garrett Soper
Duluth, Minnesota
Garrett Soper   Duluth, Minnesota
Add me too.
Garrett Soper Oct 24, 2008
William Kelly
Appleton
William Kelly   Appleton
Please add me to the petition.
I did some climbing there back in the '60s. Oct 1, 2008
SteveZ
Denver, CO
SteveZ   Denver, CO
You can add me
Steve Dew Sep 2, 2008
Jeff Prodzinski
West Salem
Jeff Prodzinski   West Salem
I'll sign any petition that furthers the potential for climbing.

Same goes here... Add me as well! Jul 18, 2008
Kris Gorny    
Please add my name as well. Jul 16, 2008
I have a hard copy of the petition. John do you have another hard copy with names? Issac, I will add your name.
At this point I'm waiting for some responses to some things before moving forward. Jul 15, 2008
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
I'll sign any petition that furthers the potential for climbing. Jul 15, 2008
You can add my name too.
-Kevin Dombrock May 21, 2008
You can put my name on it. Anything to provide access for "silent" sports on public land. Can we send a petition around via email? That might work to get more people signed on. If it is a state threatened or endangered species that is the cause for the recent closure we can probably work something out with the DNR were the climbing would only be in certain areas or at certain times of the year or day even. May 20, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
That's a very good point Travis. I believe they both play a role in keeping it closed. I have contacted Nick Rhoads of the WI Access Fund to find out the progress they made and why the crag is still closed. I will post his response when I receive it. May 20, 2008
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
I'd love to see this reopened. Put my name on it. I am curious if it is still closed because the fear of having to incur the cost of another rescue, or because of some protected plant species living there. That might make a difference on how we approach the authorities about reopening the place. May 20, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Thx Jay. So far that makes 5 of us.

Here is a link to view the petition. Please feel free to make suggestions on verbage.

vivmaster.orionweb.net/Gibr…

Here is a great resource to find out what more we can all do to preserve our climbing areas in WI.

accessfund.org/regions/stat…

Lets get a group of volunteers together to help clean up Gibralter and to help destroy the invasive species that plague the area. These efforts, along with our petition, should give us a better chance of gaining access to this crag. May 20, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
You can add my name. May 19, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Apparently the DNR got ownership of Gibralter in 2007. dnr.wi.gov/ORG/LAND/ER/sna/…

So please help us out and get this petition going. May 19, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Lets get a petition going and get this place back in the hands of the climbers of WI. We have nothing like this anywhere else in WI.

I have no idea who or where to send the petition, or what exactly to write, but all together we have to be able to come up with something convincing. So please, contact me with any thoughts, info, and signatures. I will put together the whole thing, just help me get started guys/gals.

Climb on!

small update: Here is where I am going to send the petition

Richard Evans
richard.evans@dnr.state.wi.us and his phone number is: 608-356-8301

Hopefully he will be able to help. May 16, 2008
Kurt Johnson
Estes Park, CO
Kurt Johnson   Estes Park, CO
Over 20 years ago, when I was a Boy Scout, our troop would stay at a house near the base (owned by the Scoutmaster's parents?) which had a perfect view of the main face. One winter morning 4 or 5 of us hiked over to it and scrambled up what seemed like the center of the cliff, scaling fairly steep sections of verglased rock, just barely hanging on. Miraculously, not one of us slipped, either because of sheer luck, or because it wasn't nearly as steep as it felt to a bunch of non-climbers - or both. At the time it felt like a do-or-die scenario; downclimbing was out of the question and we had no idea what lay ahead. Had I known about the North Face of the Eiger back then, I would have thought I was on it. When we topped out we felt like badasses, though a little shaken and happy to be alive. That's one of those formative moments in one's early climbing career that either kills you or makes you stronger; that either adds to your resume or makes you a statistic. Fortunately for me it was the latter, and an experience I'll always look back upon with fondness. Nov 24, 2007

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