Stairway to Heaven  WI5+ R

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Type:  Ice, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III Consensus:  WI5+ [details] FA:  Jim Knight & Mark Ward 1975 (P1 to P4). Lou Dawson & George Vicenzi 1976 (P1 to P5). Season:  Winter (December to February) Submitted By:  John Ross on Oct 29, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Stairway to Haven 1993. If you look close you can...

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Description 

(P1) (WI3) 190' The reliably forming first pitch is also known as "The Apron". This area is popular for beginners and top-roping. Belay from either of two sets of chains on a truck sized boulder. Scramble up the slope to the base of P2. P1 can be bypassed via a walk-around to the west.

Safety Note: There is a set of chains on each side of the truck sized boulder above the first pitch ("rock-strewn ledge"). Because of the large amount of loose rock on the sloping ledge there is significant rock fall danger if you rappel from these chains when there is no snow to hold the rocks in place. An easy walk-off to the west via a short (10') down-climb is best under most circumstances. In addition, while approaching and using the anchor chains, kicking loose any rocks on the ledge can be a hazard to climbers below on "The Apron". To avoid the falling rock and ice, most people at the bottom learn to "stay in close" or "well away" from the base of the climb.

(P2) (WI4) Pillars in early season later turn into a fat curtain of steep ice. Over the top hike up the slope to two sets of anchors at the base of P3: Achors #1: Left side of P3 and often ice covered, Anchors #2: right side
(P3) (WI5) Wide steep curtain (pillars in early season).
(P4)
(P5) Forms late.
(P6)
(P7) Pillar. Usually the last pitch to form. Walk around this pitch if needed by hiking east along the ledge, up a short 5.5 chimney, then traverse back west to the ice.
(P8)
(P9)
(P10)

Sluffs occasionally cascade down the route from snow built up on the ledges between pitches. A rapid warming for instance can loosen up the snow sending it down on unsuspecting climbers. Could be enough to knock a leader off the ice.

Location 

This is the large ice formation west (down canyon) from Bridal Veil Falls.

Protection 

Protect with ice screws. Bolted anchors and some fixed gear can be found (sometimes covered in ice). It is possible to two-rope rappel down the right side. Rappel to the bottom of P2 then walk-off to the west.

Photos of Stairway to Heaven Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Ice Bouldering the first pitch of Stairway to Have...	BETA PHOTO: Climbers on the upper pitchs. It's been a few yea...	BETA PHOTO: Setting a screw near the top of pitch two. 02/1993...
BETA PHOTO: One of the upper pitchs. 02/1993. Photo by Shawn K...	Stairway condition on 12/08/2006	Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
Stairway to Heaven 2005-06 season P's 1-10 1024 v...	The pillar on P7, Feb 2006. This was the last pitc...	At the base of "The Apron" during the Ice Festival...
BETA PHOTO: Stairway to Heaven 12-17-09.	BETA PHOTO: Stairway to Heaven starting with "The Apron" at the bot...	BETA PHOTO: Upper pitches of Stairway to Heaven (12-17-09).
Me belaying Crisco on the second half of the first...	Bridal Veil Falls (Right) 12/10/2011	Merrill Bitter - mid 80's