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Toats Coulee - Middle Fork (Loomis)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Clockwork Orange T 
Chasing Rainbows T,S 
Gravity's Rainbow S 
Hoister Cloister T 
In White Helmets S 
Kim-eality S 
Lost and Found S 
Peakin' At Windy S 
Sunrise S 
T Time S 
Weather Station S 
Zen Caterpillar S 

Toats Coulee - Middle Fork (Loomis)  


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Elevation: 5,250'
Location: 48.8768, -119.8973 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 830
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: applewood on May 27, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Toats Coulee Middle Fork - South and SW faces

Description 

TOATS COULEE MIDDLE FORK CRAG is a high (5250' elevation), remote and small area located at the SE edge of the Pasayten Wilderness along the Long Swamp Road (a one hour drive from Tonasket - 36 miles west of Tonasket and about 18 miles west of Loomis). The 150' tall granite cliff is on the right hand side just before where the road crosses the Middle Fork of Toats Coulee Creek. There is a lovely camp ground along the creek and fine views of Windy Peak to the north.

There are two possible approaches;
1) Park just before the creek (turn out on the left across from the “curve ahead” sign) and hike due north up the trail-less slope, short and steep, for about 10 minutes to the base of the SW facing cliff. The approach is through a lodge pole and aspen forest past the huge boulder to an open upper grassy slope. Veer left when you come to the open grassy band to reach the base of the South Face.

2) Park along the creek at the campground and hike east up the steep boulder and tree covered slope to the base of the SW face.

The top can be reached easily from either end. The rock is fine quality granite, and the climbing ranges from the easier broken ledges on the right end of the South face, to the steep and blank SW face. Be aware when lowering, as many of the routes are long and/or don’t start at the base. This is also a relatively new and minimally used area and so be prepared for some dirt and/or loose rock on the routes - helmets are recommended.

There are also a couple of abandoned/aborted projects on the SW Face between Zen Caterpillar and Peakin' At Windy - with a bolt or two going nowhere, and ring anchors at the top.

  • Note to all climbers, although this is a remote feeling crag it is also easily accessible to a wide range of other users (such as campers, hikers and hunters), so please do your best to minimize your impact and presence; pack it in-pack it out, and leave no trace. Potential route developers, please respect local etiquette, avoid bolting when gear would do, make any permanent anchors (bolts or top anchors) camouflaged, use stainless steel hardware as much as possible and don't mix your metals. Any comments and input on existing or new routes is much appreciated.

  • Note - a key to route descriptions;
NAME; grade and quality (* - good, ** - very good, *** - great, **** - world class classic); (length); type of pro. used - G = natural/gear, F = fixed (b - bolt, p - piton, fn - fixed nut), M = mixed; TR = toprope, R = runout/dangerous, PG = scary/risky; Description; FA (first ascent date), GU = ground up ascent, TR = top rope ascent.

Getting There 

TOATS COULEE CRAG is located along the Long Swamp road/access (FS road #39) in the Northern Pasaytens, 36 miles west of Tonasket (about 18 miles west of Loomis).

Climbing Season



Weather station 22.7 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Toats Coulee - Middle Fork (Loomis)

Zen Caterpillar 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WA : Okanogan : Toats Coulee - Middle Fork ...
ZEN CATERPILLAR 5.12a *** 80’ F (12b)Begin about 15’ left of the main inside corner at the far right end of the South West Face, and climb up and slightly right through increasingly difficult moves (interesting side-pulls with minimal feet) to the anchors on the upper face below the upper roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Toats Coulee - Middle Fork (Loomis) Slideshow Add Photo
Toats Coulee Middle Fork Crag from creek
Toats Coulee Middle Fork Crag from creek
Toats Coulee - South Face topo
BETA PHOTO: Toats Coulee - South Face topo
Toats Coulee Crag from the south.
Toats Coulee Crag from the south.
Windy Peak from Toats Coulee Middle Fork creekside...
Windy Peak from Toats Coulee Middle Fork creekside...
Toats Coulee SW Face topo
BETA PHOTO: Toats Coulee SW Face topo

Comments on Toats Coulee - Middle Fork (Loomis) Add Comment
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By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
Jun 5, 2014
6/5/14 - Discovered a smashed over bolt hanger at the top of "Chasing Rainbows" today. At first I thought it was done deliberately by hikers or hunters, then I noticed some huge rocks had been trundled from the slope above and figured it just got crushed by a boulder. The short gully above "T-Time" also had lots of rocks trundled down it and is now bare of ground cover (will take a few years for plants to return to stabilize it), and there are many smallish rocks loose at the top edge of the cliff. The routes below the gully (T-Time and A Clockwork Orange) now have a lot of run off dirt/debris on holds and in cracks. I cleaned T-Time well, but more dirt will be washing off the slope above.... Beware.